XIII Make up sentences with the words.

Shape, quality, size, texture, amount, colour, up-to-date, old style, to relate, to cut.

XIV Define the Infinitive Constructions and translate the sentences into Russian.

1. Oblique lines are known to take away some width of figure, and add a little height.

2. Any line encircling the figure is likely to add width.

3. She knows raglan sleeves to be pleasing on the person with erect shoulders.

4. The position of trimmings is known to have a decided effect on apparent height and width of the figure.

5. The length of the dress is said to have a definite effect on the figure.

XV. Scan the text and speak about main principles of dress designing. Use a dictionary if necessary.

Unit 11 Cutting

I. Give your opinion on the following questions.

1. Why do we cut garments for mass production by machines?

2. Why does cutting require considerable skill?

II. Guess the meaning of the international words.

Conveyor, horizontally, regulate, maximum, vibration, characteristics, method, operation, natural, synthetic, material, mass, typical.

III Read and remember the following words:

1. to shrink (shrank, shrunk) - садиться (о материи), давать усадку

2. to treat - обрабатывать

3. shrinking - декатировка

4. chamber - камера

5. slope - наклон; клониться, иметь наклон

6. to require - требовать (чего-либо), нуждаться (в чём-либо)

7. tension - напряжённое состояние, напряжение; натягивание

8. to pile - складывать, настилать слой

9. a ply - сгиб, складка, слой

10. a pattern - выкройка, лекало

11. transfer - перенос, перемещение; переносить, перемещать

12. fine - тонкий; точный

13. a dart - вытачка

14. drill - сверло; сверлить

15. layer - слой, пласт

16. available - имеющийся в распоряжении, наличный

17. alternately - попеременно, с чередованием

18. frequently - часто

19. speed - скорость

20. to traverse - пересекать; вращаться

21. adjustable - регулируемый, приспособляемый

22. spreading - настил

IV Read and remember the following phrases:

1. to keep in mind - помнить

2. sketch out - рисовать эскизы, делать наброски

3. to a great extent - в значительной степени

4. to lay out - настилать, раскладывать

5. cutting on the open - раскрой в разворот

6. cutting in the fold - раскрой в сгиб

V. Read and translate the text:

TEXT A

Cutting process

One should keep in mind that before cutting all wool fabrics should be shrunk.

We know that shrinkage may be done by hand by means of a shrinkage machine. The shrinkage machine is capable to shrink wool fabrics to such a degree that they would not shrink on subsequent treatment. The shrinkage machine is a special conveyor consisting of heating and steaming chambers; the conveyor itself being inclined horizontally, this slope gives the maximum shrinkage in length during the treatment by steam and vibration.

All garments begin in a design room. Here designers sketch out their ideas for a new model using high-fashion magazines, various showings to help them to keep in the current mode. Then cutting itself is being done.

Cutting requires considerable skill because the fit of the garment depends to a great extent upon the accuracy of the cutter. Cutting has become more complicated by the introduction of new fabrics with different characteristics. Cutting methods vary considerably. The cutting operations can be done by single operators or by a team of operators. There are three main operations: spreading, marking, and cutting.

The term “spreading” refers to the laying out and piling of piece goods on the cutting tables. The spreading operation varies with the method used: cutting on the open and in the fold, spreading by hand or machine; laying fabrics face to face or face to back and spreading the fabrics all in the same direction. Good spreading results in a lay in which each ply lies perfectly flat and without tension. Today electric and hand operated cloth spreading machines are known to be widely used for all natural and synthetic materials.

Marking is the transfer of patterns to a piece of fabric or paper. Various methods are used in the marking operations. Most patterns are cut in pairs (right and left) from the two plies placed face to face. Then a fine marking by chalk should be done. A number of machines have been introduced for marking the position of darts, pockets, etc. An electrically-operated cloth drill makes holes through all the thickness of the lay.

Garments for mass production are cut out by a machine that takes a roll of cloth and spreads it on a cutting table in as many layers as are required. There are different kinds of cutting machines used in apparel manufacturing, for example, the rotary knife, the straight knife, the band knife and circular knife machines. Straight knife cutting machines are the most frequently used, they are available with two speeds, regular and half speed. A high speed circular knife is used for cutting the cloth, the knife being traversed alternately from right to left and then from left to right at the next cut. The speed of the knife’s movement can be regulated. The rate of fabric feed being 3 feet per second, a typical cycle time for cutting would be 8 seconds. Production is increased, proportionally if more than one layer of fabric is fed. Delivery of the cut pieces is controlled by a flap which is adjustable to govern the timing and speed of removal.