Things every driver should know
Things every driver should know
A typical driver's education program should have a good grasp of the rules of the road and basic car control. But the real world is full of other challenges the instructors don't cover in driving school. These complicated problems include dead batteries, flat tires and those red-and-blue lights in the rearview mirror.
Let’s discuss some situations that every driver (young or old) should know how to handle.
A flat tire. Statistics show that the average person will have five flat tires in their lifetime. It is best to be prepared for it. Start with the vehicle owner's manual, which will offer detailed wheel-changing instructions specific to a car. The first step will be to locate the spare tire, the jack and other tools required to change the wheel.
Dead battery. This is why jumper cables should be required equipment for every car. Using jumper cables to start a car with a dead battery requires a second car, of course. Again, the owner's manual will provide a jump-starting procedure specific to the vehicle. Then practice jump-starting a car in the driveway.
Out of gas. When the low-fuel warning light comes on, it means get gas now, not after a while. Because when a driver fails to notice the light, and the car sputters to a halt, the advice should be to stay with the car. Get the car safely off the roadway. Turn on the warning flashers and open the hood, the international sign of driver distress. If the driver has a phone, he or she should call a friend or a relative for help. (1,100)
challenge – вызов, сложная задача average - средний
to get off – выходить из машины resale value – цена перепродажи
to lower - снижать to defer - задерживать
cardboard - картон to shovel - откапывать
throttle - рычаг управления двигателем winch - лебедка
dead battery - разряженная батарея (аккумулятор)
flat tires - спущенная шина
jumper cable - соединительный кабель
flasher - проблесковый маяк
performance - технические характеристики, эксплуатационные качества
lever – рычаг (переключения)
gauge - датчик
lane – полоса движения
to get stuck — застрять
spin of the tires - буксование
drift (skid) – занос gear - передача to crank - проворачивать
off-road - пересеченная местность
driveway - проезжая часть дороги
roadway - шоссе; мостовая; проезжая часть дороги
to drive away - уехать
to tailgate - не соблюдать дистанцию ( при управлении автомобилем )
to yield - пропускать вперед
to sway – поворачивать
to weave in (out) of traffic – вклиниваться в поток машин (выезжать)
How to get unstuck
You just drove into muck, and the car is stuck. What to do?
From snow: It's critical to keep a light foot on the gas, because too much throttle merely spins the tires, heating them up and melting the snow around them, which will refreeze into ice.
First, get out and see how bad you are stuck. If it is just your drive wheels that are blocked, the process will be much simpler. But if you tried to plow through a drift and the whole car is angled on a mound of snow, you're going to have to do some digging first to get the car back on solid ground.
If you can move at all, "rock" the vehicle back and forth by shifting between drive and reverse and going as far as you can in either direction. Be careful not to step on the gas before the gear engages, or you could do serious damage to the transmission. Sometimes it helps to clear a little space around your front tires by cranking the steering wheel back and forth. You can get a little extra traction by putting cardboard under the drive wheels, too. If there's no cardboard around and the situation is desperate, the car's floor mats might also work. If that fails, keep shovelling.
From mud or sand: Whatever you do, don't spin the tires. That will just dig a deeper hole. Instead, put something in the intended path of the drive wheels — palm fronds, branches, beach towels, wood blocks, your kid brother, anything — and proceed slowly.
Ideally, if you're wandering off-road, you should bring a mud ladder or sand ladder with you. Mud and sand ladders are basically small bridges made of steel, rope, or wood that can be placed before the drive wheels and driven across. Of course, anyone so well prepared as to have sand or mud ladder along is also more likely to have a buddy with a winch nearby. (1,400)
Preventive Maintenance
By using the easy tips to maintain the vehicle the driver can prolong the life of his or her vehicle.
Common signs of brake problems include a high-pitched screeching sound when applying the brakes, brakes that are not as responsive as they should be, a pedal that 'sinks' towards the floor, vibration on the brake pedal or a grinding metallic sound.
Keeping any vehicle running well requires constant monitoring of vital fluids. Fluids that should be monitored and topped up on a regular basis include: engine oil, transmission fluid, engine coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, windshield washer fluid. The latest observing shows that some drivers don’t take care of their cars at all. Here's a breakdown of problems found (the fluids were low and/or dirty!):
a. Engine oil - 28%
b. Transmission fluid - 22%
c. Power steering fluid - 12%
d. Brake fluid - 20%
e. Coolant - 32%
Ensuring a vehicle has adequate shocks and struts will increase the vehicle's safety and performance. Worn shocks and struts can cause uneven tire wear, damage suspension components, and cause unusual drift and sway to your vehicle.
It is important that winter tires be replaced with all-season tires in the spring, as the rubber compound is different and performs differently in warmer temperatures. Driving on winter tires throughout the summer is hard on them and will decrease their lifespan.
The car's filters have a significant impact on engine life and performance, they also have an effect on fuel consumption and emissions. While the oil filter's job is to remove oil contaminants, the air filter captures airborne contaminants, like bugs and dirt, preventing them from entering the engine. Left unchanged, dirty air and oil filters can lead to poor acceleration, lower gas mileage, poor engine performance and serious repairs. (1,500)
tips – подсказки to top up - дозаправлять, доливать, наполнять
to cause – вызывать, быть причиной decline - уменьшение
bag of nerves - жутко нервный terms - условия
add-on – дополнительный to neglect – пренебрегать
strut – стойка spark plug – свеча зажигания
misfire - осечка; перебой зажигания
brake pad - тормозная колодка
junction - пересечение дорог, перекрёсток
to clip – въехать, ударить, задеть (припаркованный автомобиль)
power steering - рулевой привод с усилителем
to fill up - заправить
to overtake – обгонять flush – промывка
sludge – грязь, осадок
to bolster – способствовать bearing – подшипник
hauling – перевозка; буксировка
wiper blade - щетка стеклоочистителя
о звуке: high-pitch – пронзительный squealing – визжащий
screeching - издающий визжащий звук grinding - скрежещущий
о гарантии: covered under warranty – гарантия распространяется на
corrosion warranty - гарантия от коррозии
rust-through perforation warranty - гарантия от сквозной коррозии
additive - добавка; присадка
contaminant загрязняющее вещество, примесь
Staying safe
Cold weather driving safety starts with the perfect winter emergency kit and any of us who have been stuck out in the cold knows how true a statement that is. Find out what to put in your perfect winter car emergency kit.
One of the easiest things to help prepare for winter driving is to create a winter emergency kit and store it in your vehicle. It's always a good idea to be prepared in case of emergencies, big or small. While you don't have to keep an entire garage in your vehicle, it's smart to keep the basics on hand in case something should happen.
Put together the most complete emergency kit possible. From battery jumper cables to a properly inflated spare tire, below are a few additional thoughts to keep in mind when packing your winter emergency kit.
Communication: cell phone, its charger and GPS/map. The easiest way to get help is to call for assistance. Whether that is your local police station, a tow truck or your friends/family. Make sure someone knows where you are and the situation.
First Aid Kit Essentials: blanket, pair of gloves, hat, boots, band aids and water bottles. Making sure you and your passengers are safe is the number one priority. Make sure to keep these items on hand while waiting for assistance to arrive.
Winter Weather Beaters: shovel, small bag of sand or kitty litter (helps the tires grip on ice or slush) and snow brush and ice scraper. Frustration and time can often be saved with the items below. Keep these items on-hand and you can get yourself out of many winter messes.
Make Sure To Stay Visible: flashlight and extra batteries and road flares or caution triangles. You don't want to become a hazard for other drivers still on the road. Make sure other vehicles can see you.
In addition to the items above, the number one items you should have on your car are winter tires. Winter tires help provide enhanced traction and optimize performance in some of the most severe winter weather conditions. Count yourself lucky if you don't have to dig into your winter emergency kit this season, but knowing it's there will make you feel safer on the road. And you never know when you might need to lend a helping hand. (1,700)
slush - осадок, грязь
kit – набор, компект
band aid - бинт
advance – достижение
to juggle - дезориентировать
grip - сцепление шин с дорогой
triangle - знак треугольной формы
traction - сила сцепления ( напр. шины с дорогой )
headrest - подголовник ( кресла )
U-turn – разворот, поворот на 180 градусов
stop-and-go situation - эксплуатация ( автомобиля ) с частыми остановками
to score – подсчитывать очки
rating - оценка
Marginal (ratings) - предельный, минимальный
occupants – пассажиры
side impact crashes - испытание автомобиля на боковой удар
frontal crash – лобовое столкновение
to lessen an impending impact – уменшить максимальный ущерб
Future safety advances
When the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety first started performing its own front crash tests in the mid-1990s, about half the vehicles scored "Marginal" or "Poor." Today, cars perform so well on the frontal offset crash test that the Institute will no longer bother testing them on a routine basis. Of the 106 current vehicle designs the Institute has tested, 88 earned the top rating of "Good." None are rated as "Poor," the worst of the four possible ratings. Only two, the Jeep Liberty SUV and Chevrolet Silverado pick-up, have "Marginal" ratings.
Now, instead of testing all new or redesigned models, the Institute will test only new versions of cars that have not previously earned a good rating or that have been so substantially changed that the new version is an entirely different vehicle.
But the improvement in front-crash effectiveness doesn't mean cars are as safe as they can be. The key is to protect occupants in crashes that are less common but more dangerous. That's already what's happened with the emphasis on side impact crashes. With deaths in front crashes declining, side impact crashes account for an increasing percentage of motor vehicle fatalities. Some researchers think that car manufacturers should install head-protecting side airbags for this reason. But some engineers are sure that real improvements will come only from computerized systems that can predict and prevent, or at least mitigate, accidents.
Systems like "electronic stability control," which is available under a variety of trademarked names from different manufacturers, are already having an effect for SUVs and trucks. Electronic crash avoidance and crash mitigation systems have the advantage that they can be added to vehicles without having to substantially reengineer them. Other systems, already available in some high-priced luxury vehicles, automatically apply brakes to lessen an impending impact or close windows and sunroofs prior to an impact.
Anti-lock brakes have got more advanced, as well, taking into account that drivers often don't understand what the system does and, as a result, don't use the brakes as aggressively as possible in an emergency. Some cars now have systems that detect when a driver wants to stop quickly but is holding back, fearing a skid. The computerized system will apply the brakes fully, allowing the anti-lock braking system to prevent the wheels from skidding. (2,000)
Dealing with emergencies
As the driver works on his or her own vehicle, he or she should know it better. It means that the driver becomes more sensitive to its signals, if something sounds strange or smells strange or just doesn’t feel right. This can help prevent expensive repairs because fault will be found before it becomes a major problem. And if something does need repair, the driver should be able to report symptoms it will save the mechanic time and money for the car’s owner.
If the owner wants to diagnose symptoms professionally, he or she can buy an electronic diagnostic code reader or a scan tool that plugs into a Diagnostic Communications Link (DCL) mounted under the dashboard of most modern vehicles. Do-it-yourself versions cost from $60 to about $400. They read any trouble codes the on-board diagnostic program (OBD) has recognized and translate the codes into problems the driver can look up in a repair manual for the vehicle to see what’s involved in buying the part and replacing it himself or herself.
Symptoms can be very different: smell, sounds, leaks and smoke, and, of course, some so-called strange sensations. Some faults can be fixed by the driver and the others should be checked only by the professionals. For example, if you smell oil or exhaust fumes in the passenger compartment, the cause could be burned oil from the engine area, but it also could be a faulty exhaust pipe under the car that lets exhaust gases into the vehicle through the floorboards.
“Strange sensations” is a catchall category for those things that just “feel funny.” The process of elimination should be used to check anything that may cause your vehicle to run roughly: hoses, tires, brakes, oil levels, spark plug connections, the cooling system, clutch, gearshift, and steering linkage. For example, the car starts wandering instead of running in a straight line, the cause may be worn steering components or wheels that are out of alignment. If noticed anything strange when the vehicle’s running the under-the-hood check should be carried out. This easy, 15-minute monthly check-up can prevent 70 percent of the problems that could cause the vehicle to break down on the highway. By checking for symptoms of trouble in advance, it saves the driver’s time and money that otherwise would go to towing and repairs. (1,900)
catchall category - позиция "прочие"
fault - неисправность
floorboard – автомобильный коврик
attached to - прикрепленный
dashboard - приборная панель
Do-it-yourself -самодельный, сделанный собственными силами
hose –шланг
gearshift - переключение передачи
steering linkage -рулевой привод
towing - буксировка
tailpipe - выхлопная труба
cracked - треснувший
cylinder head - крышка цилиндра
gasket - уплотнение
steering gear - рулевая передача
to tune up - налаживать, регулировать
full mark – отметка уровня полной заправки
caliper - скоба
guide pin - направляющий штифт
bushing - втулка
backing plate - опорный щит (тормозных колодок)
tread - протектор (шины)
tight area - труднодоступный участок (обрабатываемой детали)
hub cap - колпак ступицы колеса
lug nut - зажимная гайка
code reader - считыватель кодов компьютера автомобиля
on-board diagnostic program (OBD) - встроенная диагностика
LAC (Lowest Additive Content) – самое низкое содержание присадок
electronic engine analyzer –электронный анализатор работы двигателя
Car myths
Get some car care myths exposed. Learn what's true among all those false ideas you have heard about taking care of your car.
Myth: The car's motor oil should be changed every 3,000 miles.
It is recommended that vehicle owners follow their manufacturer's maintenance intervals while it is still under warranty. However, if a car is no longer under warranty, try using synthetic oil that can extend oil change intervals.
Myth: My car engine needs to warm up before driving.
During winter months, it is a common practice for drivers to warm their vehicles up inside, but a cold engine will warm up faster when it is being driven instead of idling. If you use your car not often, take a few minutes to warm up your car before you drive away. This allows cold, thick oil to warm up, protecting your engine from damage. For cold weather starts, all you need is 30 seconds to ensure proper oil flow and lubrication. In the event of frigid temperatures, driving at a slower speed for a few miles will give your car enough time to warm up.
Myth: Are dishwashing detergents suitable for washing my car?
It is common for people to use dish detergents to wash your car, but do so with some warning. Dish detergents are designed to remove animal or vegetable fat and will equally target the wax on your car. Instead, opt for a product specifically for automotive use.
Myth: All oil filters are the same.
You may think that "an oil filter is an oil filter," but that's not true, because there can be significant differences that affect both filtration efficiency and longevity. The oil filter is the engine's main line of defense against abrasion and premature wear. The more dirt and other contaminants the filter can trap and hold the better. (1,300)
Bodywork
A vehicle is more than a collection of parts and systems. The vehicle’s body is subject to the same ravages of time and hard knocks. Repairing a small area is relatively easy. But if the vehicle has suffered extensive body damage, such as major rusting or large holes, dents, creases, or tears in its metal or fiberglass skin, let the professionals do their best.
Otherwise the driver can cope with minor faults by himself or herself. The good news is that many modern vehicles have aluminum or plastic pieces, hoods, trunk lids, fenders, and bodies that aren’t subject to rust. The first line of defense against rust is to wash and wax the vehicle regularly. The paint on the vehicle is there not only for beauty but for protection as well. Paint and clear-coat finishes help retard rust and, on aluminum parts, corrosion and pitting. As long as the paint job is unmarred, metal body surfaces are safe. But a small scratch can spell the beginning of trouble.
There are generally two types of auto dent repair. They are paint restoration repair and paintless dent repair. Paintless dent repair is usually done for minor dents, while paint restoration repair is more commonly centred around repairs where serious damage has been inflicted on the affected parts. Of course, almost everything can be done by the driver’s own hands. But if the damage is too extensive to repair at home, especially if the frame becomes bent by a violent impact only the auto repair shop helps on these occasions. (1,200)
to be subject to – подвергаться
ravages - разрушительное действие
to cope with minor faults – справляться с незначительными неисправностями
elbow-grease - тщательная полировка, тяжелый труд
to entail - вызывать что-л, определять
to inflict – наносить
launch - запуск
predecessor - предшественник
bodywork – кузовные работы
fender - крыло
indentation - повреждение
top-heavy - перевешивающий в своей верхней части; неустойчивый
recycling - переработка отходов
taillight - задний габаритный фонарь
dings - перегиб листа
retouching - ретушировать
collision – столкновение
body panel - панель кузова
unmarred – чистый, неиспорченный (о слое краски)
restoration repair – реконструкция, модернизация
rust – ржавчина
dent – вмятина
crease – царапина
tear – износ, разрыв
brittle – ломкий
light – легкий; светлый
unhardened – незакаленный
stiffness – жесткость
strength – прочность
pitting - точечная коррозия
skin – покрытие, наружный слой
clear coating - прозрачное покрытие
finish –обработка
polishing - полирование
filling - заливка, закраска
Audi
With the launch of the A2, Audi AG introduced the first vehicle in the world to have a volume-built all-aluminium body. This model combines high strength with low weight, frankly speaking it the lightest car in the luxury class. The third-generation Audi Space Frame now has fewer components than its predecessors, which makes it easier to build the car in large quantities.
Other car makers are also starting to take aluminium seriously. As engine sizes have increased cars have become more top-heavy. Using aluminium for the hood and front wings helps to get a better weight distribution between front and rear axles. Another advantage of aluminium is that it is cheaper to recycle than steel. This will be an important consideration in the future when the EU introduces tougher recycling regulations.
But there are drawbacks to using aluminium. Replacing steel with aluminium is expensive, an aluminium body costs twice as much as a steel one. Not only are aluminium production processes expensive, they are also difficult to implement. Because aluminium is more brittle and tears more easily than steel, it can only be formed when it is in an unhardened state. Furthermore, the aluminium used for the outer parts of the car, such as the wings and the doors, needs to be thicker than steel because it doesn’t have the same stiffness. The dent-resistance of aluminium is also less than that of steel.
On the plus side, aluminium doesn’t rust like steel, and in car crashes it has a higher energy absorption rate, which increases the car’s active safety. (1,300)
Car washing
Some car owners think rainwater is the only enemy to their car, but bird droppings, highway bugs, atmospheric pollution and road salt can also ruin the beauty of the car. Here are some steps to make the car look better.
Step 1: Washing
First, spray water gently to thoroughly wet the surface of the vehicle. This light rinse helps to loosen the dirt on the vehicle. Then divide your car into five sections: the top, the hood, the trunk, the right side and the left side. Start from the top, move on to the hood and the trunk, and then concentrate on the right side and the left side. Washing should always be done very gentle such that the dirt will not scratch the body of the car. Re-wet and then rinse each section, finishing in the same order- top, hood, trunk and sides.
Step 2: Polishing
Polishing should only be done a small section at a time. Add an even coating of polish onto a towel, and then apply to the vehicle surface gently in small, even and circular motions. Start at the top and working your way down to the trunk and hood, finally ending with the sides. The polish should be allowed to sit on the paint surfaces for at least five to ten minutes. After this time, remove the residue with a different cotton towel by pressing firmly on the surfaces. The same procedure may be applied to all other four sections.
Step 3: Waxing
Use a soft and clean terry cloth towel to apply wax to a small section of the car. The application of wax to the car can be done similar to how polishing has been carried out. The only difference is you should wait until the wax has dried to a slight haze. If you’re really striving, repeat the whole process again, adding a second coat of wax to the vehicle. (1,400)
Things every driver should know
A typical driver's education program should have a good grasp of the rules of the road and basic car control. But the real world is full of other challenges the instructors don't cover in driving school. These complicated problems include dead batteries, flat tires and those red-and-blue lights in the rearview mirror.
Let’s discuss some situations that every driver (young or old) should know how to handle.
A flat tire. Statistics show that the average person will have five flat tires in their lifetime. It is best to be prepared for it. Start with the vehicle owner's manual, which will offer detailed wheel-changing instructions specific to a car. The first step will be to locate the spare tire, the jack and other tools required to change the wheel.
Dead battery. This is why jumper cables should be required equipment for every car. Using jumper cables to start a car with a dead battery requires a second car, of course. Again, the owner's manual will provide a jump-starting procedure specific to the vehicle. Then practice jump-starting a car in the driveway.
Out of gas. When the low-fuel warning light comes on, it means get gas now, not after a while. Because when a driver fails to notice the light, and the car sputters to a halt, the advice should be to stay with the car. Get the car safely off the roadway. Turn on the warning flashers and open the hood, the international sign of driver distress. If the driver has a phone, he or she should call a friend or a relative for help. (1,100)
challenge – вызов, сложная задача average - средний
to get off – выходить из машины resale value – цена перепродажи
to lower - снижать to defer - задерживать
cardboard - картон to shovel - откапывать
throttle - рычаг управления двигателем winch - лебедка
dead battery - разряженная батарея (аккумулятор)
flat tires - спущенная шина
jumper cable - соединительный кабель
flasher - проблесковый маяк
performance - технические характеристики, эксплуатационные качества
lever – рычаг (переключения)
gauge - датчик
lane – полоса движения
to get stuck — застрять
spin of the tires - буксование
drift (skid) – занос gear - передача to crank - проворачивать
off-road - пересеченная местность
driveway - проезжая часть дороги
roadway - шоссе; мостовая; проезжая часть дороги
to drive away - уехать
to tailgate - не соблюдать дистанцию ( при управлении автомобилем )
to yield - пропускать вперед
to sway – поворачивать
to weave in (out) of traffic – вклиниваться в поток машин (выезжать)
How to get unstuck
You just drove into muck, and the car is stuck. What to do?
From snow: It's critical to keep a light foot on the gas, because too much throttle merely spins the tires, heating them up and melting the snow around them, which will refreeze into ice.
First, get out and see how bad you are stuck. If it is just your drive wheels that are blocked, the process will be much simpler. But if you tried to plow through a drift and the whole car is angled on a mound of snow, you're going to have to do some digging first to get the car back on solid ground.
If you can move at all, "rock" the vehicle back and forth by shifting between drive and reverse and going as far as you can in either direction. Be careful not to step on the gas before the gear engages, or you could do serious damage to the transmission. Sometimes it helps to clear a little space around your front tires by cranking the steering wheel back and forth. You can get a little extra traction by putting cardboard under the drive wheels, too. If there's no cardboard around and the situation is desperate, the car's floor mats might also work. If that fails, keep shovelling.
From mud or sand: Whatever you do, don't spin the tires. That will just dig a deeper hole. Instead, put something in the intended path of the drive wheels — palm fronds, branches, beach towels, wood blocks, your kid brother, anything — and proceed slowly.
Ideally, if you're wandering off-road, you should bring a mud ladder or sand ladder with you. Mud and sand ladders are basically small bridges made of steel, rope, or wood that can be placed before the drive wheels and driven across. Of course, anyone so well prepared as to have sand or mud ladder along is also more likely to have a buddy with a winch nearby. (1,400)
Preventive Maintenance
By using the easy tips to maintain the vehicle the driver can prolong the life of his or her vehicle.
Common signs of brake problems include a high-pitched screeching sound when applying the brakes, brakes that are not as responsive as they should be, a pedal that 'sinks' towards the floor, vibration on the brake pedal or a grinding metallic sound.
Keeping any vehicle running well requires constant monitoring of vital fluids. Fluids that should be monitored and topped up on a regular basis include: engine oil, transmission fluid, engine coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, windshield washer fluid. The latest observing shows that some drivers don’t take care of their cars at all. Here's a breakdown of problems found (the fluids were low and/or dirty!):
a. Engine oil - 28%
b. Transmission fluid - 22%
c. Power steering fluid - 12%
d. Brake fluid - 20%
e. Coolant - 32%
Ensuring a vehicle has adequate shocks and struts will increase the vehicle's safety and performance. Worn shocks and struts can cause uneven tire wear, damage suspension components, and cause unusual drift and sway to your vehicle.
It is important that winter tires be replaced with all-season tires in the spring, as the rubber compound is different and performs differently in warmer temperatures. Driving on winter tires throughout the summer is hard on them and will decrease their lifespan.
The car's filters have a significant impact on engine life and performance, they also have an effect on fuel consumption and emissions. While the oil filter's job is to remove oil contaminants, the air filter captures airborne contaminants, like bugs and dirt, preventing them from entering the engine. Left unchanged, dirty air and oil filters can lead to poor acceleration, lower gas mileage, poor engine performance and serious repairs. (1,500)
tips – подсказки to top up - дозаправлять, доливать, наполнять
to cause – вызывать, быть причиной decline - уменьшение
bag of nerves - жутко нервный terms - условия
add-on – дополнительный to neglect – пренебрегать
strut – стойка spark plug – свеча зажигания
misfire - осечка; перебой зажигания
brake pad - тормозная колодка
junction - пересечение дорог, перекрёсток
to clip – въехать, ударить, задеть (припаркованный автомобиль)
power steering - рулевой привод с усилителем
to fill up - заправить
to overtake – обгонять flush – промывка
sludge – грязь, осадок
to bolster – способствовать bearing – подшипник
hauling – перевозка; буксировка
wiper blade - щетка стеклоочистителя
о звуке: high-pitch – пронзительный squealing – визжащий
screeching - издающий визжащий звук grinding - скрежещущий
о гарантии: covered under warranty – гарантия распространяется на
corrosion warranty - гарантия от коррозии
rust-through perforation warranty - гарантия от сквозной коррозии
additive - добавка; присадка
contaminant загрязняющее вещество, примесь
Staying safe
Cold weather driving safety starts with the perfect winter emergency kit and any of us who have been stuck out in the cold knows how true a statement that is. Find out what to put in your perfect winter car emergency kit.
One of the easiest things to help prepare for winter driving is to create a winter emergency kit and store it in your vehicle. It's always a good idea to be prepared in case of emergencies, big or small. While you don't have to keep an entire garage in your vehicle, it's smart to keep the basics on hand in case something should happen.
Put together the most complete emergency kit possible. From battery jumper cables to a properly inflated spare tire, below are a few additional thoughts to keep in mind when packing your winter emergency kit.
Communication: cell phone, its charger and GPS/map. The easiest way to get help is to call for assistance. Whether that is your local police station, a tow truck or your friends/family. Make sure someone knows where you are and the situation.
First Aid Kit Essentials: blanket, pair of gloves, hat, boots, band aids and water bottles. Making sure you and your passengers are safe is the number one priority. Make sure to keep these items on hand while waiting for assistance to arrive.
Winter Weather Beaters: shovel, small bag of sand or kitty litter (helps the tires grip on ice or slush) and snow brush and ice scraper. Frustration and time can often be saved with the items below. Keep these items on-hand and you can get yourself out of many winter messes.
Make Sure To Stay Visible: flashlight and extra batteries and road flares or caution triangles. You don't want to become a hazard for other drivers still on the road. Make sure other vehicles can see you.
In addition to the items above, the number one items you should have on your car are winter tires. Winter tires help provide enhanced traction and optimize performance in some of the most severe winter weather conditions. Count yourself lucky if you don't have to dig into your winter emergency kit this season, but knowing it's there will make you feel safer on the road. And you never know when you might need to lend a helping hand. (1,700)
slush - осадок, грязь
kit – набор, компект
band aid - бинт
advance – достижение
to juggle - дезориентировать
grip - сцепление шин с дорогой
triangle - знак треугольной формы
traction - сила сцепления ( напр. шины с дорогой )
headrest - подголовник ( кресла )
U-turn – разворот, поворот на 180 градусов
stop-and-go situation - эксплуатация ( автомобиля ) с частыми остановками
to score – подсчитывать очки
rating - оценка
Marginal (ratings) - предельный, минимальный
occupants – пассажиры
side impact crashes - испытание автомобиля на боковой удар
frontal crash – лобовое столкновение
to lessen an impending impact – уменшить максимальный ущерб
Future safety advances
When the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety first started performing its own front crash tests in the mid-1990s, about half the vehicles scored "Marginal" or "Poor." Today, cars perform so well on the frontal offset crash test that the Institute will no longer bother testing them on a routine basis. Of the 106 current vehicle designs the Institute has tested, 88 earned the top rating of "Good." None are rated as "Poor," the worst of the four possible ratings. Only two, the Jeep Liberty SUV and Chevrolet Silverado pick-up, have "Marginal" ratings.
Now, instead of testing all new or redesigned models, the Institute will test only new versions of cars that have not previously earned a good rating or that have been so substantially changed that the new version is an entirely different vehicle.
But the improvement in front-crash effectiveness doesn't mean cars are as safe as they can be. The key is to protect occupants in crashes that are less common but more dangerous. That's already what's happened with the emphasis on side impact crashes. With deaths in front crashes declining, side impact crashes account for an increasing percentage of motor vehicle fatalities. Some researchers think that car manufacturers should install head-protecting side airbags for this reason. But some engineers are sure that real improvements will come only from computerized systems that can predict and prevent, or at least mitigate, accidents.
Systems like "electronic stability control," which is available under a variety of trademarked names from different manufacturers, are already having an effect for SUVs and trucks. Electronic crash avoidance and crash mitigation systems have the advantage that they can be added to vehicles without having to substantially reengineer them. Other systems, already available in some high-priced luxury vehicles, automatically apply brakes to lessen an impending impact or close windows and sunroofs prior to an impact.
Anti-lock brakes have got more advanced, as well, taking into account that drivers often don't understand what the system does and, as a result, don't use the brakes as aggressively as possible in an emergency. Some cars now have systems that detect when a driver wants to stop quickly but is holding back, fearing a skid. The computerized system will apply the brakes fully, allowing the anti-lock braking system to prevent the wheels from skidding. (2,000)
Dealing with emergencies
As the driver works on his or her own vehicle, he or she should know it better. It means that the driver becomes more sensitive to its signals, if something sounds strange or smells strange or just doesn’t feel right. This can help prevent expensive repairs because fault will be found before it becomes a major problem. And if something does need repair, the driver should be able to report symptoms it will save the mechanic time and money for the car’s owner.
If the owner wants to diagnose symptoms professionally, he or she can buy an electronic diagnostic code reader or a scan tool that plugs into a Diagnostic Communications Link (DCL) mounted under the dashboard of most modern vehicles. Do-it-yourself versions cost from $60 to about $400. They read any trouble codes the on-board diagnostic program (OBD) has recognized and translate the codes into problems the driver can look up in a repair manual for the vehicle to see what’s involved in buying the part and replacing it himself or herself.
Symptoms can be very different: smell, sounds, leaks and smoke, and, of course, some so-called strange sensations. Some faults can be fixed by the driver and the others should be checked only by the professionals. For example, if you smell oil or exhaust fumes in the passenger compartment, the cause could be burned oil from the engine area, but it also could be a faulty exhaust pipe under the car that lets exhaust gases into the vehicle through the floorboards.
“Strange sensations” is a catchall category for those things that just “feel funny.” The process of elimination should be used to check anything that may cause your vehicle to run roughly: hoses, tires, brakes, oil levels, spark plug connections, the cooling system, clutch, gearshift, and steering linkage. For example, the car starts wandering instead of running in a straight line, the cause may be worn steering components or wheels that are out of alignment. If noticed anything strange when the vehicle’s running the under-the-hood check should be carried out. This easy, 15-minute monthly check-up can prevent 70 percent of the problems that could cause the vehicle to break down on the highway. By checking for symptoms of trouble in advance, it saves the driver’s time and money that otherwise would go to towing and repairs. (1,900)
catchall category - позиция "прочие"
fault - неисправность
floorboard – автомобильный коврик
attached to - прикрепленный
dashboard - приборная панель
Do-it-yourself -самодельный, сделанный собственными силами
hose –шланг
gearshift - переключение передачи
steering linkage -рулевой привод
towing - буксировка
tailpipe - выхлопная труба
cracked - треснувший
cylinder head - крышка цилиндра
gasket - уплотнение
steering gear - рулевая передача
to tune up - налаживать, регулировать
full mark – отметка уровня полной заправки
caliper - скоба
guide pin - направляющий штифт
bushing - втулка
backing plate - опорный щит (тормозных колодок)
tread - протектор (шины)
tight area - труднодоступный участок (обрабатываемой детали)
hub cap - колпак ступицы колеса
lug nut - зажимная гайка
code reader - считыватель кодов компьютера автомобиля
on-board diagnostic program (OBD) - встроенная диагностика
LAC (Lowest Additive Content) – самое низкое содержание присадок
electronic engine analyzer –электронный анализатор работы двигателя