Appropriate cleaning and sanitizing

Agents are used according to

manufacturer’s instructions

Before using any solvent, detergent or sanitizing

agent such as bleach you must read both the label

on the container and the COSHH sheet which the

manufacturer or your company has prepared.

Solvent should only be used in the cleaning bath

for which it is designed.

The pressure washer or steam jenny should only

be used with the recommended detergent.

Electrical items can be cleaned with one of the

many aerosol sprays which are available for this

purpose, but the volatile fumes which are given off

must not be breathed in.

You should remember that all cleaning agents

should be kept away from your mouth and eyes,

and contact with your skin may cause irritation or

a more serious skin disease. Always wash your

hands and any other exposed areas of skin with toilet

soap after carrying out a cleaning task.

Used agents are safely disposed

Of according to local and statutory

Regulations

The Environmental Protection Act (EPA) and local

by-laws in most areas require that used cleaning

solvents must be disposed of safely. This means

that they must be put into drums and either collected

by a refuse disposal firm or taken to a local

authority amenity site where they are put into a

large tank for bulk incineration. Several local

authorities, for instance Surrey and Hampshire, are

now looking at ways of using the energy produced

by burning waste material to produce electricity.

Emptying used solvents into the drain can lead to a

heavy fine or even imprisonment.

Detergents are by their nature biodegradable,

that is, they break down, do not build up sludge

and will not explode, unlike solvents. However, if

you use large quantities of detergents, wash bays

which are fitted with the correct type of drainage

system should be used.

Machinery, equipment and work

Areas are cleaned according to

Locally agreed schedules

In your company’s Health and Safety Policy document

there will be reference to the cleaning of the

floors and equipment in the garage and general

amenities such as toilets and rest areas. Also there

will be maintenance and repair records for the

workshop equipment which will include a regular

schedule of cleaning and inspection.

Most companies work on the basis of sweeping

down fixed machinery and floors at the end of each

day, unless the generation of dirt requires more frequent

attention.

On a weekly basis there will be a more thorough

cleaning programme which may include window

cleaning and wet cleaning certain areas.

Workshop equipment is usually cleaned and

inspected on a monthly basis unless there is reason,

such as a fault, for a more regular treatment.

Appropriate safety clothing and

Equipment is used when working

With hazardous cleansing agents

And equipment

To protect yourself from the cleaning agents which

you are using you must, where appropriate, wear

personal protective equipment (PPE). Most cleaning

agents are poisonous and cause irritation or

more serious complaints if allowed to come into

contact with your eyes or skin.

Whenever you are working on a motor vehicle it

is expected that you wear cotton overalls and

safety footwear. In addition the HSWA requires

that employers provide and employees wear the

appropriate PPE for hazardous jobs such as using

cleaning equipment. The general requirements are

as follows:

1 Cleaning bath – rubber protective gloves

which extend over the user’s wrists,

goggles and plastic apron. Avoid getting

solvent on your overalls as this can lead to

skin irritation, be especially careful not to put

solvent soaked or oily rags in your overall

pockets.

2 Pressure washer – rubber protective gloves and

goggles, waterproof (plastic) over-trousers and

jacket, and finally rubber boots (wellingtons).

The idea is to be able to take the waterproof

gear off and be dry underneath.

3 Steam cleaning plant – the hazard here is that as

well as being wet the water is scolding hot. So

the waterproof clothes must be of such a manufacture

that they will protect the wearer from

84Repair of Vehicle Bodies

the high temperature, high pressure steam. This

means thick and strong over-trousers, coat,

boots, gloves and a hat. A full-face mask is used

to give complete protection.

Health and Safety issues are further discussed in

chapter 15.

Questions

1 State five basic rules concerning dress and

behaviour which demonstrate personal safety in

the workshop environment.

2 List five necessary precautions for safety in the

workshop and describe each one briefly.

3 What is meant by a skin care system as used in

the workshop?

4 Explain the importance of eye and face protection

in the workshop environment.

5 Explain the importance of protective clothing for

a body repairer and a paint sprayer.

6 Explain the significance of headwear and

footwear while working in the workshop.

7 Name the four types of respirator used in a

bodyshop.

8 Why have the COSHH Regulations made the use

of respiratory equipment mandatory?

9 State the minimum noise level at which ear

protection must be used.

10 With the aid of a diagram, explain the fire

triangle.

11 Name the three methods of fire extinction.

12 Explain the three classifications of fire.

13 Identify the correct colour code for the following

fire extinguishers: water, foam, CO2, powder,

halon.

14 Name the four categories of safety signs used in

the workshop.

15 Sketch and identify a safety sign used in a

bodyshop.

16 Name the items of personal safety equipment that

should be used when operating the following

power tools: power saw, power chisel, disc sander.

17 State the essential personal safety precautions to

be taken before working under a vehicle which is

on a hoist.

18 Give practical reasons for wearing safety gloves

in the workshop.

19 Identify the type of fire extinguisher that must be

used when dealing with a solvent fire.

20 Explain the precautions which must be taken

when handling toxic substances in a workshop

environment.

21 When dealing with a petrol fire, which would be

the correct type of fire extinguisher to use?

22 Explain the importance of the use of a barrier

cream.

23 Name three important Acts of Parliament which

influence the working procedures in a bodyshop.

24 Explain the following abbreviations: COSHH,

EPA, HASAWA.

25 State the health hazards associated with the use

of GRP for repairs.

26 What is meant by duty of care?

27 Describe how to safely store paint.

28 Describe how you might account for waste paint

products.

29 What is PAT testing?

30 Why should you not smoke or drink alcohol when

working as a vehicle repairer or refurbisher?

Hand and power

tools

3.1 Hand tools used in body repair work

Mass production methods have made the

present-day motor car such that it requires special

techniques, skills and tools for the rectification of

body damage. Specialist tools have been designed

to suit the varying contours and shapes of the

present all-steel bodies and panels. These tools are

made of high-carbon tool steel, which is forged

and then heat treated to give long service in the

hands of a skilled body repair worker. In a body

repair toolkit the basic tools are the hammer and

dolly. All other tools have been developed around

these, giving us the specialist tools which are

now currently available. A repair job cannot be

successfully carried out before one has completely

mastered the skill of using the planishing hammer

and dolly in coordination with each other, as this

skill is the basis of all body repair work involving

the use of hand tools.

Sections 3.2 to 3.8 describe body repair hand

tools.

3.2 Hammers

Planishing hammer

The planishing or panel hammer is used more than

any other tool in the body repair trade, and for

this reason the best hammer available should be

obtained. The principal purpose of the panel

hammer is for the smoothing and finalizing of a

panel surface after it has been roughed out to the

required shape. The planishing hammer should

have a true and unmarked face, and it must be kept

polished and free from road tar, underseal and

paint, which readily adhere to its working faces

during use. This tool is designed solely to be used

in conjunction with a dolly block; it must never be

used for chiselling or any other work which might

mark or impair the faces of the hammer, for if the

face of the hammer became marked the marks

would be transferred to the surface of the panel.

These particular hammers are generally made

with one face square. This face is usually flat,

while the other, round end is slightly domed or

crowned. However, hammers are available with the

square end domed and the round end flat, or alternatively

with both faces flat or both faces crowned.

In practice the square end, which is usually flat, is

used for planishing on a curved surface of a panel,

or in corners, or against swaged recessed sections,

and the crowned end for reasonably flat panels.

The difference in the faces stops the panel surface

being marked with the edge of the hammer

when used in conjunction with the dolly block.

The weight of the planishing hammer for general

and new work ranges from 12 oz (340 g) to 16 oz

(450 g), and the handles, which are usually very

thin at the neck of the shaft for balance purposes,

are made of hickory or ash to give the hammer a

good rebound action when used with a dolly block.

Standard bumping hammer

This hammer (Figure 3.1a, b) is used for initial

roughing out of work on damaged panels. It is also

used for finalizing and finishing. The round face is

in (35 mm) in diameter and the square face is

in (38 mm) square, and the total weight is 14 oz

(395 g). The hammer is made with either flat or

crowned faces.

Light bumping hammer

This (Figure 3.1c, d) tool is ideal for work on light

gauge materials. It is used in the same manner as

the standard bumping hammer. The squared face

is 1 in (25 mm) square and the round face is in

(32 mm) in diameter, and it has a weight of 12 oz

2 13

86Repair of Vehicle Bodies

(340 g). This hammer is also obtainable in flat or

crowned faces.

Dinging hammer

This hammer (Figure 3.2a, b) is a long-reach

planishing hammer and is designed for careful,

controlled finishing work. It is extremely well

balanced and gives a very good finish when used

correctly. Hammers can be obtained for light

or heavy work with weights from 12 oz (340 g)

to 18 oz (510 g).

Shrinking hammers

Shrinking hammers (Figure 3.2c, d, e) are similar

in design to a normal planishing hammer but have

faces which, instead of being smooth, are serrated,

giving a cross-milled effect like a file. The purpose

of these serrations is to achieve a shrinking effect

when the hammer is used in conjunction with

a dolly block. This is caused by the fact that the

contact area between hammer and metal is greatly

reduced by the serrations on the face. This tool

is used largely when beating the surface on overstretched

panel areas which have to be hot-shrunk

in order to return them to their normal contours.

Hammers are available for light or heavy shrinking,

according to the depth of the serrations.

Pick and finishing hammer

This tool (Figure 3.3a, b) is used in place of, or in

conjunction with, the planishing hammer. Its main

use is to pick up small, low areas on the surface of

a panel which is in the process of being repaired by

planishing. On panels that are reasonably flat, such

as door panels, parts of roof panels and bonnets,

this method of raising low areas is quick and, if carried

out correctly, does not unduly stretch the metal.

To lift a low area with a pick hammer, one or

two taps with the pick end of the hammer are

directed from underneath the panel under repair to

the centre of the low area. The blows stretch the

metal sufficiently to raise the surface surrounding

the point of the low spots where the blows were

struck. This slightly raised area is next tapped

down lightly with a planishing hammer or the finishing

end of the pick hammer on to a suitably

shaped dolly block, and the panel is finished off by

filing with a panel file. When one becomes proficient

in using this tool it is possible to raise the

surface with light blows and finish off by filing

only. However, without sufficient experience there

is a danger of over-stretching the metal owing to

the inability to direct the blow accurately on to the

low area under repair.

The pick and finishing hammer has a pointed

end which is suitable for removing low spots and is

also a useful finishing hammer, having a crowned

(a)

(b)

(d)

(c)

Figure 3.1(a) Standard bumping hammer (crowned

faces) (b) standard bumping hammer (flat faces)

(c) light bumping hammer (crowned faces) (d) light

bumping hammer (flat faces) (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

(a)

(d)

(e)

(c)

(b)

Figure 3.2(a) Heavy dinging hammer (flat faces)

(b) light dinging hammer (crowned faces) (c) heavy

shrinking hammer (serrated flat face) (d) light shrinking

hammer (milled flat face) (e) light shrinking hammer

(shallow milled flat faces) (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

Hand and power tools 87

surface on a round face of in (38 mm) diameter;

it is well balanced and weighs 14 oz (395 g).

Straight pein and finishing hammers

These hammers (Figure 3.3c, d) are used in a similar

manner to the pick and finishing hammer, but

are designed with either a straight or a curved

peined end which acts like a chisel, and a domed

round end which is used for planishing. They are

suitable for roughing out prior to planishing, or

in the finishing stages of planishing for stretching

small low areas. These hammers can be used

to dress out sections which are difficult to work

on owing to their awkward shape or position, such

as around lamp openings and in recessed and

moulded sections on panels.

Curved pein and finishing hammer

This tool (Figure 3.3e) is identical in use to the

straight pein and finishing hammer except that its

curved pein end allows for greater flexibility in

dressing out sections which are difficult to work on

owing to their awkward shape or position.

Fender bumping hammer

This tool (Figure 3.3f ) has a long curved head with

one face which is circular to reduce the effect of

stretching the metal when in use. This hammer is

used for roughing out and dressing out damaged

sections on panels to restore them to their correct

shape and curvature before planishing begins. The

heavy weight of this hammer, together with the

curve, makes it very effective for hammering out

difficult and inaccessible sections.

File hammer or beating file

This tool (Figure 3.4) is designed to be used like

a hammer in conjunction with a dolly block,

although it is actually a file with a serrated face

and is suitably shaped for holding in the hand. The

milling on the file blade tends to shrink the panel

as well as leaving a regular rough patterned surface

ideal for locating low spots on the panel under

repair and for finishing with a body file. The tool

is used in conjunction with a hand dolly, and with

a glancing blow. It is most effective on large flat

sections, where it will be found ideal for smoothing

and levelling out wavy panels. Two types of

beating files are available; one is flat for use on

low- and high-crowned surfaces, while the other

is half-round in shape and is used on convex or

reverse-curved panel sections.

Mallets

Mallets can be of the round or pear-shaped type

made from boxwood or lignum vitae, or can be

(a)

(b)

(c)

(e)

(d)

(f)

Figure 3.3(a) Pick and finishing hammer (crowned

face) (b) pick and finishing hammer (flat face)

(c) straight pein and finishing hammer (crowned face)

(d) straight pein and finishing hammer (flat face)

(e) curved pein and finishing hammer (crowned face)

(f) fender bumping hammer (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

Figure 3.4Beating files (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

88Repair of Vehicle Bodies

rubber, aluminium or plastic faced (Figure 3.5).

Some mallets have interchangeable heads so that

the correct head can be used for the material being

worked. A mallet is greatly used in the initial stages

of smoothing and roughing out of a panel prior to

planishing. When hot shrinking, the mallet is the

tool to achieve a most successful shrink because a

normal planishing hammer would tend to stretch the

metal rather than shrink it. Without a mallet, aluminium

work would be most difficult as this metal

is so easily marked and stretched. The working

faces of the mallet must be kept in first-class order,

or marks on the surface of the metal will result.

3.3 Hand Dollies

These are either cast or drop forged steel blocks,

heat treated to provide the correct degree of hardness.

The shapes of the dolly blocks have been

designed to provide a working surface that is highly

polished and suitable for use on the many contours

found on motor vehicle bodies. They are used in

conjunction with the planishing hammer or beating

file and act as a support or anvil to smooth out the

surface area of panels that have been damaged.

These dollies, together with the planishing hammers,

are the most essential tools for the panel

beating trade. Obviously one dolly block will not

be suitable for all shapes requiring planishing;

therefore it is advisable to have a set of these

dollies which would be suitable for a wide range of

the shapes and contours encountered on the everchanging

body styles of the modern motor vehicle.

When selecting a dolly block for a particular

job, it should always be remembered that as flat a

dolly block should be used as possible for the job

in hand; then the dolly will not only cover the

panel area quicker because of its bigger face area,

but will smooth out the metal without excessive

stretching. When working on panel contours it

must be borne in mind that a dolly block having a

high-crowned surface will tend to stretch the metal

much quicker than one having a low-crowned surface;

hence the choice of block depends on whether

the particular section under repair needs to be

stretched quickly or just smoothed and planished

without stretching.

It is very common for the faces of the dolly blocks

to become coated with paint, road tar, or anti-drum

compounds which it picks up from the underside of

panels under repair. This coating must be removed

from the surface of the dolly block so that when it

is used with the hammer there is a metallic contact

(metal to metal) between dolly block and work and

hammer. This contact should be heard as a ringing

noise if successful planishing is to be achieved.

Various dollies are shown in Figures 3.6 and 3.7.

Some details are as follows.

Double-ended hand dolly is conveniently designed

for a good grip with two useful surfaces, one

high crowned and one low crowned. It is ideal for

general planishing and roughing out. Its weight is

3 lb 4 oz (1473 g).

Utility dolly forms the basis of every body kit. It

offers a variety of useful faces, and is found ideal

for working in confined spaces.

General-purpose dolly is very well shaped and easy

to hold and offers wide, low-crowned faces which

are essential when working on the new body styles.

Its weight is 2 lb 12 oz (1247 g).

Heel dolly has a low flat face with radiused corners.

It is suitable for corner and angle work and is easy

to handle because of its fairly small weight of 2 lb

14 oz (1020 g).

Figure 3.5Mallets (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

Hand and power tools 89

Toe dolly combines a large flat face with a low

crown on other faces and is long and thin for easy

handling in narrow sections. The bottom face is

ground flat which adds to the versatility of this

block. Its weight is 3 lb (1360 g).

Thin toe dolly has similar surfaces to the toe dolly

but is thinner and is ideal for working in awkward

places where other dollies cannot be used. Its

weight is 2 lb 4 oz (1020 g).

Shrinking dolly block is designed for shrinking

welded seams and reducing stretched areas prior

to filling. It has a groove down the centre of the

block into which the stretched or welded seams

can be dressed. Its weight is 3 lb (1360 g).

Grid dolly is similar in shape to the toe dolly but

has a large crowned grid face on the upper surface.

The base has a plain flat face for normal finishing

work. It has been designed to act as a shrinking

dolly when used in combination with a shrinking

hammer and the application of heat. The weight is

2 lb 4 oz (1130 g).

Curved dolly or comma block has a long curved

face, combined with the high- and low-crowned

areas and the tapering face; it is extremely well

suited to the modern body design, and is comfortable

to hold in difficult areas and narrow corners.

The weight is 3 lb 6 oz (1530 g).

Round dolly is light and small and very easy to

hold. It offers high- and low-crowned faces for

work on small areas of damage. The weight is 1 lb

10 oz (736 g).

3.4 Body spoons

These tools are made from a high-grade steel which

has been drop forged and heat treated. They are

sometimes called prying spoons because the spoon

end is used in the same manner as a dolly in conjunction

with a hammer. The body spoon really

does the same job as a dolly block but is designed

for use in confined spaces where a normal dolly

block cannot be held in the hand, e.g. between

door frames and outer door panels. The spoon end,

which acts as the dolly, must be kept in good

condition and free from anti-drum compound so

that it gives a metal-to-metal contact when used

in conjunction with a hammer. The spoon can also

be used for roughing or easing out by wedging the

spoon in between panels.

Surface spoon (Figure 3.8a) has an extra large

working area which is very slightly crowned, and

it is ideal for working in between and round struts

and brackets without much dismantling.

General-purpose spoon (Figure 3.8b) is a doubleended

body spoon and is also a basic item in most

panel beaters’ toolkits. The applications for a spoon

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

(e)

(f)

Figure 3.6(a) Shrinking dolly (b) lightweight curved

dolly or comma block (c) regular dolly (d) toe dolly

(e) round dolly (f) heel dolly (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

(a)

(b)

(d)

(c)

(e)

(f)

(g)

Figure 3.7(a) Thin toe dolly (b) angle dolly (c) utility

dolly (d) general-purpose dolly (e) grid dolly

(f) double-ended dolly (g) curved dolly or comma

block (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

90Repair of Vehicle Bodies

offering such different curves are many and varied

and meet the needs of modern body shapes.

High-crowned spoon (Figure 3.8c) has been designed

to offer a broad working blade with a high crown to

work in positions where other dollies and spoons

cannot be used.

Drip moulding spoon (Figure 3.8d) has a special

lip which can be hooked under the drip moulding

of the roof section and hence simplifies the repair.

The curved surface is fully finished to enable the

tool to be used as a short standard spoon.

Spring hammering spoon (Figure 3.9a) is a light

pressed steel spoon which is designed for spring

hammering on panels which have minor blemishes

in their finishing stages. The broad blade spreads

the blow evenly over a larger contact area, thereby

reducing the possibility of sinking the metal. This

spoon is not made for prying or levering.

Heavy-duty pry spoon (Figure 3.9b) is ideal for

heavy prying and roughing-out work. It has a long

low curved blade which can be inserted into very

thin sections.

Pry and surfacing spoon (Figure 3.9c) has a short

handle which gives easy access in limited spaces

and can be used efficiently for prying behind

brackets and panel edges.

Long-reach dolly spoon (Figure 3.9d) is a special

long-handled body spoon designed to be used in

restricted spaces between double-skinned panels

such as doors and quarter panels.

Thin spoon (Figure 3.9e) is a very special thinbladed

spoon, the blade having a very slow taper

which permits entry into restricted spaces between

double-skinned panels which would not be possible

by using a normal spoon.

3.5 Body files

Flexible panel file

This tool (Figure 3.10a) is designed with a twoposition

handle, and has a 14 in (30 cm) spring

steel backing plate to give adequate support over

the whole blade. Positioned between the two hand

grips is a turnscrew threaded left and right hand for

adjusting the blade to concave or convex positions

to suit the user’s requirements. The main use of this

stool is to assist in the final planishing of the work.

First and most important, it locates areas which

are low on the surface of the panel under repair;

second, it files out small marks or defects on the

panel surface. It can be adapted to file the surface

of almost any shaped panel by setting the blade

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

Figure 3.8(a) Surface spoon (b) general-purpose

spoon (c) high-crowned spoon (d) drip moulding

spoon (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

(e)

Figure 3.9(a) Spring hammering spoon

(b) heavy-duty pry spoon (c) pry and surfacing

spoon (d) long-reach dolly spoon (e) thin spoon

(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

Hand and power tools 91

either straight, concave or convex. The file blades

are specially designed so that they do not remove

too much metal, and the milled serrations are wide

apart and curved to prevent clogging when filing

metal which has been painted, soldered or plastic

filled. It is important to release the tension on the

file blade after use in order to reduce the risk of

breakage if it is dropped or struck by accident.

Flat file

This file (Figure 3.10b) has a solid wood holder

designed to take a standard 14 in (30 cm) blade,

which must be used in a rigid position.

Half-round body file

This tool (Figure 3.10c) is similar in design to the

flat file but the blade is half-round. It is very useful

for curved surfaces.

Abrasive file

This (Figure 3.10d) is not a normal file but an

abrasive holder with a wood handle having spring

clips at either end on to which can be attached an

abrasive grit paper. This tool is of greatest use

when rubbing down plastic body fillers to their

final finish.

Body file blades

These flexible, double-sided blades are produced

from a special alloy steel and heat treated. The

milled teeth allow a smooth filing operation and

are specially shaped to reduce clogging. The blades

are either flat or radiused according to the surface

to be filed.

Supercut blades are 8 tpi (teeth per inch) generalpurpose

standard blades.

Standard cut blades are 9 tpi and used for soft

metals such as lead and solder fillers.

Fine cut blades are 13 tpi and used for aluminium,

copper and brass.

Extra fine cut clades are 17 tpi and suitable for cast

iron, steel or any narrow section of metal.

Plasticut blades are 6.5 tpi and used for plastic

body fillers only.

3.6 Hand snips

The offset combination of universal snips is

preferred by the panel beater when cutting thin

gauge metal. Universal snips (Figure 3.11a, b) are

suitable for cutting straight lines, outside and

inside curves. A right- and left-hand pair of

combination snips will be suitable for most of the

sheet metal cutting that will be encountered by

the panel beater, and there is no need for any

curved-blade snips. When the more popular righthand

snips are used, the waste metal forms a

coil to the left of the cutting blades, thus causing

little distortion to the surface of the sheet or

panel being cut; similarly, with the left-hand pair

of snips the waste metal passes to the right of

the cutting blades, leaving the undistorted sheet

or panel on the left. Snips can be obtained in

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

Figure 3.10(a) Flexible panel file (b) flat file

(c) half-round body file (d) abrasive file

(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

92Repair of Vehicle Bodies

varying sizes with either straight or crank handles.

A straight pair of snips is often necessary for

long straight cuts (Figure 3.11c).

Section 3.15.1 gives further information on hand

snips.

3.7 Specialist panel beating tools

Panel puller

This tool (Figure 3.12) comprises a long steel rod

with a cross T-piece at the top which acts as a hand

grip. At the other end a fixed hexagonal nut holds a

strong self-tapping screw, while a heavy cylindrical

weight can slide up and down the shaft against a

stop which is near the handle. This tool has been

designed to pull out dents and creases from the

face side of the panel without the necessity of

removing the trim and lining materials to gain

access behind the dents. It can also be used on

double-skinned panels where access is impossible

with conventional tools.

(a) (b) (c)

Figure 3.11(a) Universal combination snips RH (b) universal combinations snips LH (c) standard pattern

straight snips (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

Figure 3.12Panel pullers (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

The panel puller is used by drilling a in

(3.175 mm) diameter hole at the deepest part of the

dent, then inserting the self-tapping screw in the

Hand and power tools 93

hole and screwing it until a firm grip is obtained.

One hand holds the T-bar while the other pulls the

sliding weight towards the stop; there the weight

rebounds, forcing the dented panel out under the

impact of the blow.

Zipcut spot-weld remover

The Zipcut spot-weld remover (Figure 3.13) is used

with an electric or air drill, and is ideal for removing

spot welds on all areas of bodywork and subframes.

The cutter blade A is reversible with two cutting

edges. Adjustment B provides for varying depth of

cut so that only the upper panel is released (c), leaving

the original spot weld behind on the lower panel.

Cone drills or variable hole cutters

These are special alloy steel drill bits which

have been hardened to give a fine cutting edge

(Figure 3.14a). They are shaped like a cone and fit

in the chuck of a standard power drill. The hole

diameter can vary from 6 to 40 mm depending on

the hole cutter in use. These cutters are used for

fitting wing mirrors, aerials and rubber grommets

into body structures.

Figure 3.13Zipcut spot-weld remover (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

(a) (b)

Figure 3.14(a) Cone drills or variable hole cutters (b) cobalt drills or spot drills (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

94Repair of Vehicle Bodies

Cobalt drills or spot drills

These are special alloy steel drills to which

cobalt has been added to give a very hard sharp

cutting edge (Figure 3.14b). The design of the

cutting edge allows spot welds to be drilled out

of panel assemblies without creating any panel

distortion.

Impact driver

The impact driver (Figure 3.15) will loosen or

tighten the most stubborn screws, nuts and bolts.

The tool is supplied with a complete range of interchangeable

bits.

Figure 3.15Impact driver (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

(a)

(b)

(d)

(c)

(e)

(f)

Figure 3.16(a) Body trim tool (b) door handle spring

clip remover (c) trim panel remover (d) door hinge pin

remover and replacer (e) corrosion assessment tool

(f) bendable files (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

Body trim tool

This is a universal spring steel tool for removing

body trims and clips, and also weather strips, door

trims, headlamp fittings, windscreen clips, plastic

mouldings, motifs and badges (Figure 3.16a).

Door handle spring clip removers

These are specially designed pliers for fitting

or removing the spring clips used on many modern

door handles. One jaw sets in the neck of the

spring whilst the other grips the other end, and the

whole spring is then levered out (Figure 3.16b).

Trim panel remover

This tool is designed to remove vehicle trim

panels, upholstery and roof liners without damage

(Figure 3.16c). It also fits a wide variety of buttontype

fasteners used on vehicle trim.

Door hinge pin remover and replacer

This is designed for the removal and replacement

of hollow hinge pins used on vehicle door hinges

(Figure 3.16d).

Hand and power tools 95

Corrosion assessment tool

This tool has been designed for vehicle inspection

(Figure 3.16e). It acts as a combined tapping

hammer, blunt scraper and short lever. It has been

introduced to standardize the methods of corrosion

assessment employed by MOT testers, and is ideal

for bodyshops conducting pre-MOT checks and

assessment for corrosion.

Bendable file

This tool is a standard round file but it can be bent

to the desired shape, which allows it to be used

in difficult locations where a normal straight file

would not have easy access (Figure 3.16f ).

Clamps

Sheet metal clamp (Figure 3.17a) is a generalpurpose

clamp which can be locked on to sheet

metal with a powerful quick-release grip, making

panel assembly and tack welding procedures much

easier operations.

Welding clamp (Figure 3.17b) has a powerful grip

which holds parts in alignment while leaving

both hands free for the welding operation. The

deep-throated jaws and centre opening provide the

operator with maximum visibility and full access

to the welding area.

C clamp (Figure 3.17c, d) has a wide jaw opening

with a relatively small gripping area, which produces

pressure without permanent jaw damage to

panel surfaces. It allows accurate close-up working

in restricted areas and on awkward shapes, e.g. sill

panels.

Punches

Hole punches (Figure 3.18a) have interchangeable

heads to punch holes of either in (5 mm) or in

(6 mm) diameter, and enable joining panels to be

accurately aligned for welding. The in (5 mm) 3

(a)

(b)

(d)

(c)

Figure 3.17(a) Sheet metal clamp (b) welding

clamp (c) extra large C clamp (d) C clamp

(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)

(a) (b)

Figure 3.18(a) Hole punch (b) wing punch

(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

diameter hole is for gas welding or brazing and the

in (6 mm) hole is for MIG welding.

Wing punch (Figure 3.18b) is a hole punch with a

specially designed head which allows it to be used

on wing panels and channel sections and also fit

over roof gutters and wheel arches.

Edge setters

The edge setter (Figure 3.19a) is a portable, handoperated

tool designed to provide a ‘joggled’ joint

or stepped edge on a repaired or new panel, thus

96Repair of Vehicle Bodies

creating a flush-fitting lap joint. The joggled panel

edge provides a stiff joint and helps prevent distortion

when welding. It can be used on mild steel

up to 1.2 mm (18 gauge) and applied in many situations

which require this type of joint.

The rolastep edge setter (Figure 3.19b) is

a portable tool used on the vehicle or a panel

assembly. Its rollers produce a smooth, uniform

stepped panel edge to create a flush-fitting lap

joint, allowing a panel replacement to be inserted.

Door skinner

This is a special tool (Figure 3.20) for crimping

flanges tightly on replacement door skins. It is

used by first bending the flange to an acute angle

and then tightening or crimping the flange to the

door frame. During this operation, interchangeable

tough nylon pads prevent damage to the surface of

the door skin.

(a)

(b)

Figure 3.19(a) Edge setter (b) Rolastep edge setter

(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

Figure 3.20Door skinner (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)

Figure 3.21Inter-grip welding clamps (Frost Auto

Restoration Techniques Ltd )

Inter-grip welding clamp

The inter-grip clamp is approximately 25 mm cube

shaped, and uses a wing nut and toggle bar to

firmly clamp pieces of metal together edge to edge

and perfectly level, leaving only a small gap which

will allow full penetration of the weld and filler

rod (Figure 3.21). Once the two sections are tack

welded together the wing nut is slackened, the

toggle bar removed and the clamp lifted from the

Hand and power tools 97

job, prior to final welding. The end result is a firstclass

butt weld requiring very little dressing. The

clamps are ideal when welding patch repairs in

floors, wings and door skinning, or when assembling

fabricated or new panels.

Temporary sheet metal fastener system

This sheet metal holding system is a set of pins,

installed with special pliers, which quickly and

easily clamps panels together before final welding,

bonding or riveting (Figure 3.22). The clamps will

securely hold together body panels and sections

where no other clamp will reach because there is

no rear access. The 3 mm blind fasteners have an

expanding pin which, when inserted through the

panel and released, exerts over 8 kg (18 lb) holding

pressure. The edge grips have 12 mm deep jaws to

clamp flanges and other edge work. To install or

remove either, the pliers are needed to overcome

the powerful spring pressure.

3.8 Recommended basic toolkits

for panel beaters

The pride of the craftsman is the set of tools he

possesses. Care of tools throughout their working

life is important. All bright surfaces should be

kept clean and free from scours and blemishes

that could be transferred to the body panels.

Stowage of tools when not in use is also important,

but this will depend on the working conditions

in the bodyshop. Wall boards with the

necessary clips and tool silhouettes can be used

with a specified set of tools. This is ideal for general

usage from a central store, as missing tools

can be quickly identified. Metal toolboxes are

most useful when each worker maintains his own

toolkit.

The apprentice, improver and tradesman will

each collect his or her own basic toolkit: suggested

sets are shown in Figures 3.23, 3.24 and 3.25

respectively.

(a) (b)

Figure 3.22Temporary sheet metal fastener: (a) system (b) in use (Frost Auto Restoration Techniques Ltd)

98Repair of Vehicle Bodies

replacement panels and sections are not readily

available. These specialist tools are also frequently

used in the coach building industry during the

construction of new vehicles.

Sections 3.10 to 3.16 cover fabrication tools.

3.10 Hammers and mallets

Hammers

Hammers (Figure 3.26) are still the most important

forming tools as far as the body worker is concerned,

and from the commencement of his career

he should attempt to acquire a skilful hammering

technique. The essential points to look for when

hammering are first, to hold the hammer correctly,

gripping the shaft firmly but not tightly and towards

the shank end in order to take full advantage of its

length. Second, the action should be produced by

the wrist rather than the forearm, and as strength is

developed in the wrist it will be found that it is

possible to control the hammer under all circumstances.

The hammer head should only be swung

Figure 3.24Improver basic toolkit

(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

Figure 3.25Tradesman basic toolkit

(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

Figure 3.23Apprentice basic toolkit

(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd )

3.9 Hand tools used in the fabrication

of sheet metal

The panel beater often finds the need to fabricate

articles or components in mild steel, using specialist

hand tools. This need usually arises when

Hand and power tools 99

sufficiently to ensure that the metal is struck where

required using the correct amount of force.

Engineer’s ball-pein hammer

This is a general purpose hammer. Its main uses

are for riveting, chiselling, forming angles and

brackets, planishing heavy welds to refine their

structure and flattening heavy-gauge plate. The

hammer has one end round and flat and the other

a rounded ball-pein, and it usually has an ash

handle fitted into the head. It is made in a variety

of weights to suit individual needs.

Stretching and flanging hammer

This is used to form external and internal flanges

on curved surfaces by hand. The hammer is curved

with two rounded cross-peins which allow blows

to be struck at right angles in the direction of

stretching. By tilting the hammer very slightly it is

possible to gain maximum stretching on the outside

of curved work. This hammer is designed for

turning small flanges on highly curved work and

is normally used in conjunction with a stake.

Wiring hammer

This is designed for closing thin-gauge metal over

wire to form wired edges. The head of the hammer

is curved and has two very sharp chisel-like

cross-peins which allow it access to tuck down

the metal around the wired edge. It can be used

for either straight or curved wiring, and is used

extensively in the manufacture of wings made for

heavy transport.

Hollowing or blocking hammer

This is a shaping hammer which has two ballpeined

ends and is rather heavy. It is designed to

be used on mild steel in conjuctions with a sandbag

or wood hollowing block, and to create a double-

curved shape by hand. The hammer is used on

the initial stages of shaping metal, the component

normally being planished or wheeled to its final

shape.

Mallets

Mallets (Figure 3.27) come in two shapes.

Figure 3.26(a) Engineer’s ball-pein hammer (b) stretching and flanging hammer (c) wiring hammer

(d) hollowing or blocking hammer

Figure 3.27Round-faced mallet, pear-shaped

mallet and sandbags (F. J. Edwards Ltd )

100Repair of Vehicle Bodies

Round-faced mallets

These are used in conjunction with steel stakes

for forming and shaping. There are two types of

mallet – boxwood and rawhide. The latter is made

in strips which are rolled and pinned in position.

Usually rawhide is used on aluminium and the

lighter metals as it gives a softer blow than boxwood

and is less liable to mark the metal. The boxwood

type is an all-purpose mallet and can be used on

either mild steel or aluminium with equal success.

When using a round-faced mallet the metal

should be struck as squarely as possible to avoid

wear on one side of the face. Care should also be

taken to avoid striking the raw edges of sheet

metal, as these could split the mallet head or damage

the faces. At all times the faces of these mallets

must be kept smooth, true and free from marks as

these could be automatically transferred on to the

workpiece.

Pear-shaped mallets

These are usually made in boxwood or lignum

vitae, which is a very hard wood and hence is

ideally suitable for this type of work. The mallet is

used in conjunction with a sandbag or wood block

for either hollowing or raising when shaping metal

by hand to a double curvature shape. The highcrowned

end of the mallet is used for hollowing

into a sandbag and the small-radiused end of the

pear shape is used for glancing blows as used in

raising. The mallet is normally used on aluminium

and thingauge mild steel. Care should be taken not

to allow the faces of the mallet to become damaged

when in use.

3.11 Sandbags and hardwood blocks

Sandbags are leather bags made from two pieces of

the finest quality leather, filled with very fine sand

and stitched together. They are available in a variety

of weights and sizes but are usually round or

square in shape (Figure 3.27). The sandbag is used

with the pear-shaped mallet or the blocking hammer

to create panels by hand to a double curvature

shape. The sandbag is resilient and at each blow of

the mallet allows the metal to shape into the sandbag.

In some instances hardwood blocks are hollowed

out to different depths and diameters. These blocks

are used in the same manner as the sandbag for

shaping metal, although the blocks are more solid

and do not ‘give’ as much as the resilient sandbags.

3.12 Sheet metal bench stakes

Quite often when making panels and parts of

panels in sheet metal, it is necessary to perform

some operation such as bending, flanging, seaming,

shaping and planishing which cannot be done

by machine. In such cases these operations will

have to be carried out by hand using bench stakes.

There are many different types of stake in use; the

smaller types are usually made from cast steel, the

heavier are of cast iron, and for special work stainless

steel stakes may be used.

All these stakes must have highly polished working

surfaces and should be kept in a dry atmosphere

to reduce the possibility of corrosion on the working

surface. Certain stakes are used only occasionally,

and to maintain a bright, smooth surface they

must be given a coating of light oil from time to

time. The condition of the stakes has much to do

with the workmanship of the finished job, for if a

stake has been roughened by hammer or chisel

marks the completed job will look rough and lack

finish. For this reason stakes should not be used to

‘back up’ a sheet of metal or a panel directly when

cutting it with a chisel; hammer blows should be

aimed with care; and a mallet should be used whenever

possible when forming sheet metal over the

stakes.

Special reinforced square holes of various sizes

are made at intervals in the bench for insertion of

the bases of the stakes, which are usually square in

cross-section and taper in shape to facilitate a good

grip in the bench. There are many different types

of stake available, and those most commonly used

are as follows (Figure 3.28):

Pipe stake consists of one or two cylindrical arms

having different diameters. This stake is used for

forming pipes and cylindrical workpieces.

Grooving stake has a grooved slot cut along the top

face. The slots are used for wiring and swaging.

Funnel stake has a thick tapered head and is used

in forming, riveting and seaming tapered articles

such as funnels.

Anvil stake has a flat, square-shaped head with

a short shank and is used for general working

operations.

Hand and power tools 101

Figure 3.28Sheet metal bench stakes

1 Beck iron stake

2 Horse stake with heads

3 Round-bottom stake

4 Half-moon stake

5 Tinman’s mandrel

6 Hatchet stake

7 Pipe stake

8 Anvil stake

9 Side stake

10 Funnel stake

11 Grooving stake

102Repair of Vehicle Bodies

Side stake consists of one long elliptical shaped

head. It is used for bending, seaming and forming

curved radii.

Beck iron stake has a square tapering flat head

on one side and a round tapered head on the other

side. It serves as a general purpose anvil for riveting

and shaping round and flat surfaces, straight

bending and corner seams.

Horse stake with heads has holders (the horse part

of the stake) which can take various shaped small

heads. This stake is useful in many operations for

which other stakes are not suitable.

Round-bottom stake consists of a single vertical

piece with a flat round head on top. It is used for

flanging circular and curved work.

Tinman’s mandrel is a single horizontal metal bar,

one section of which has a flat surface and the

other section of which is rounded. The flat length

has a slot cut in it which permits the stake to be

fastened directly to the bench. The stake is used for

riveting, seaming and forming.

Half-moon stake consists of a single vertical shank

with a half-rounded head on top. The stake is used

for forming or shaping curved flanges.

Hatchet stake consists of a horizontal, sharp, straight

edge, and is used for making straight sharp bends.

Panel head stake is shaped like a mushroom and is

made in various sizes. It is used for raising, tucking

and planishing.

Ball stake is shaped like a ball and is used for the

planishing of hollowed or raised articles. It is also

used for raising domes or hemispherical shapes by

mallet or raising hammer.

3.13 Hand grooving tools

The hand groover is used when making a seam

joint by hand between two pieces of sheet metal.

The end of the tool is recessed to fit over the joint

formed when the edges of the two pieces of metal

are prebent into a U-shape and interlocked. The

grooving tool is then placed over the interlocked

edges and hammered. One edge of the tool acts as a

guide while the other forces the metal down into a

crease, thus forming a groove. This crease or set in

the metal should be made gradually, the tool being

hammered while tilted very slightly in the direction

in which the crease is to be made. This will avoid

marking the metal on the opposite side of the joint

to the crease. A tool a size larger than that of the

grooved joint should be chosen to give clearance in

use. The tools are manufactured in various sizes

from in to in (3–19 mm). These grooved joints

can be used to advantage when fastening large flat

panels together as used on commercial vehicles.

3.14 Rivet sets

A rivet set is made of tool steel. A deep hole in the

bottom of the set is used to draw the rivet through

the metal sheet before riveting, and a cup-shaped

hole is used to form the finished head on the rivet.

The drawing-up hole and the cup hole are offset

slightly to the direction of the vertical hammer

blows, and therefore great care should be taken

to hold the set in an upright position when riveting.

If the tool is allowed to tilt it is liable to make

indentations on the area of the metal which has

been riveted. Hand rivet sets are made in various

sizes ranging from in to in (3.1–19 mm).

3.15 Cutting tools

Hand snips

These are used to a great extent in the fabrication

or repair side of the panel beating trade, for cutting

thin-gauge mild steels and aluminium alloys. The

limits to which these snips can cut satisfactorily,

leaving a good edge, is a thickness of 20 SWG

(1 mm) in mild steel and slightly greater thicknesses

in aluminium. Snips are available in a

variety of types and sizes and are made from the

finest tool steel forgings. The blades are ground and

set for the accurate cutting of all sheet material.

The most popular hand snips are the universal

combination snips, which are made in sizes 10 in

to 13 in (254–280 mm) with narrow or broad

blades, with straight or cranked handles, and left

or right handed. The handles are offset on the

cranked variety so that straight and curved cuts

can be made in any direction in one operation with

the sheet kept flat and the operator’s hand clear of

the metal, the cut being followed from above. The

word ‘universal’ means that this single pair of

snips can be used for cutting straight lines and

both external and internal curved edges. Standard

pattern straight snips are also very popular,

although limited in their use to straight line cutting

or large external curves. Sizes vary from 6 in

Hand and power tools 103

of the cutters. The advantage of this tool is that

it can cut sheet metal internally, and work along

either a straight or curved line by drilling a small

access hole in the metal to allow the blade to

penetrate through the metal to commence cutting.

Allowance must be made for the wastage of in

(3.1 mm) strip when cutting to a final size.

Cold chisels

These are often used by the body repair worker for

cutting out components which have been damaged,

chipping off rusted bolts which cannot be removed

by normal methods, and chiselling sections which

cannot be cut be snips or hacksaws. Chisels are

made from high-quality steel. The cutting edge is

specially hardened and tempered, while the remainder

of the chisel is left soft to enable it to withstand

hammer blows.

The chisel is subdivided into cutting edge, shank

and head. The cutting end has a wide, flat taper

and is ground on both sides to form the cutting

edge. Metal working chisels should have sufficient

length to allow the shank to be gripped properly, as

short chisels are difficult to handle and may lead to

accidents through hammer blows if the head projects

insufficiently beyond the gripping hand. On

the other hand excessively long chisels cannot be

guided so well and consequently may vibrate and

break easily. Only the cutting edge of the chisel is

hardened. When the chisel has been in use for

some time a ridge forms on its head which is called

a burr; this needs to be removed because it may

lead to accidents during use. Chisel joint angles

vary between about 30° and 60°, the sharper angles

being used for cutting softer metals. The metal

worker’s chisel is flat, and is used for working on

flat or curved surfaces of thin sheet. It is also used

for cutting solid bolts and rivets.

Hacksaws

The hacksaw is used by the body repair worker

to advantage where a clean, neat cut is required,

usually where two pieces have to be cut to form a

welded joint, and is ideal for cutting irregularshaped

panels which could not be cut with snips or

chisel. There are many different types of hacksaws,

but in general they consist of a fixed or adjustable

frame fitted with a renewable blade of hardened

Figure 3.29Aviation snips (Frost Auto Restoration

Techniques Ltd )

to 12 in (152–305 mm). Standard pattern curved

or bent snips are designed for cutting circular outlines

and inside circles or curved shapes, as the

actual cutting blades themselves are curved. (See

Figure 3.11.)

The cutting tools known as aviation snips

were originally developed for the aircraft industry

(Figure 3.29). In contrast to the single pivot of

ordinary tin snips, aviation snips feature compound

leverage for greater shearing power, being able

to cut up to 18 gauge (1.2 mm) steel and 16 gauge

(1.6 mm) aluminium. The blades are made from

heat-treated forged chrome steel and are radiused

in order to maintain a constant cutting angle from

the back of the jaw to the front, allowing good

cutting pressure for the user.

The terms ‘left hand’ and ‘right hand’ used for

snips in this country have the continental meaning.

Left hand means that the lower blade, which should

be on the underside of the sheet of metal being cut,

is on the left-hand side. Right hand means that the

lower blade is on the right-hand side of the metal

being cut. The US reference is exactly opposite to