Of the lost secrets of jewelry

Van Cleef&Arpels has been synonymous with the most exquisite jewelry in the world since 1906.

At the beginning of the XXI century Van Cleef&Arpels Jewelry House is one of the most prestigious brands in the world of luxury. For years, the founders of the House have gathered historical jewels, trying to revive the lost jewelry craftsmanship. And they have succeeded in developing some old jewelry techniques. Here are some of them.

The Cabochonné enameling

The Cabochonné enameling technique consists of applying a thick layer of enamel to create a relief effect on the dial. Instead of being flat, the enamel has a rounded surface.

To achieve this result, the craftsmen leave the layer of enamel untouched, instead of polishing it to make it flat and regular. The unpolished enamel's rounded surface is used deliberately to add depth, volume, shine, and luminosity to the dial's decorative motif.

The Champlevé technique

The Champlevé technique calls for enameling a thick metal base, which has been engraved with cavities that take the shape of the final design. Moist powdered enamel is placed in the engraved indentations on the dial and undergoes the necessary firings. After firing, the enamel dial is sanded with fine sandpaper to eliminate any excess enamel and give the piece its brilliant shine. This is an essential step: the slightest irregularity or the presence of foreign bodies can prevent the enamel from adhering.

Preparing the rough shape calls for extremely high standards of quality and meticulous attention to detail. When the Champlevé enameling technique is complete, the zones of color are enclosed by metal borders.

The plique-a-jour technique

This filigree technique enables light to shine through the enamel like stained-glass. The motifs on the dial are held by fine gold partitions, making them look like miniature stained-glass windows. This enameling technique is one of the most demanding; since this is also the technique which best highlights the crystalline clarity of glass and the delicacy of the metal supporting it. Creating a golden frame for each element of the scenery is a critical step, due to the painstaking detail required. The frame is then filled with translucent enamel and vitrified up to 800° (1472° Fahrenheit).

Grisaille Enamel

First developed for Van Cleef&Arpels, this technique adds a poetic touch to the muted atmosphere of the Pont des Amoureux Poetic Complications™ timepiece. Grisaille enamel involves working with white pigments on a black background. To do so, the metal base is first covered with a layer of black enamel. The difficulty lies in obtaining a deep, smooth black layer with no impurities, which will be able to withstand multiple firings.

More finely ground than for traditional enamel, the enamel grains are blended with a natural essence developed especially for the Grisaille technique.

The white paint, known as "Blanc de Limoges", is applied as thickly or thinly, depending on the desired effect. The thinner the layer, the grayer the white will become when the black shines through the transparent pigment. Grisaille enamel is first applied with a brush and then drawn using a needle. The metal point of the needle enables subtle contrasts and plays of light and shadow to be obtained in the final image.

Firing brings a touch of magic to this technique, revealing the final colors, which are very different to the dial's previous appearance. Once complete, it creates a spectacular and mysterious effect of architectural relief.

Mother-of-pearl engraving and marquetry

Mother-of-pearl is a material, which Van Cleef&Arpels holds dear to its heart. Its use in timepieces is a tribute to the Maison's know-how and continuous spirit of innovation.

The challenge of using mother-of pearl in timepieces lies in the dial-maker's ability to adapt mother-of-pearl work to the confined space of a watch dial. Mother-of-pearl is a soft and delicate material that needs to be handled with extreme care. It originates from the interiors of shells, which Van Cleef&Arpels carefully selects from Tahiti, Bali, or New Zealand. This meticulous selection process is based on the uniqueness of their hues, textures, and colors.

After selection, the mother-of-pearl is worked until the required thickness and uniformity is obtained. A flat lower surface is required to fit the dial, while the material's upper surface is meticulously detailed with relief sculpting, which will eventually bring the final decoration to life.

A second piece of mother-of-pearl is polished to achieve a beautiful iridescent effect, and then cut into the shapes needed to form the required final pattern. The cutting is done with great precision to ensure that each shape fits perfectly into its specific place on the dial.

The final result achieves a vibrantly colored, iridescent, and harmonious effect, which highlights the natural beauty of mother-of-pearl.

Paillonné enamel

The Paillonné technique calls for tucking a piece of foil - a "paillon" - between two layers of enamel. Thanks to the transparency of the enamel, the technique brings shimmering reflections, brilliance, and luminosity to the dial.