Youth Cultures
When the American rock-and-roll singer Chuck Berry first sang ‘Roll over Beethoven and tell Chaikovsky the news’ in 1950s, he was telling the world that the new music, rock-‘n-roll was here to stay. Over the last 30 years it has had an enormous effect on people’s lives, and especially on the kind of clothes they wore.
The first group to be seen in the newspapers in the late 50s were Teddy Boys. Their clothes were supposed to be similar to those worn in Edwardian England (Ted and Teddy were abbreviations of Edward): long jackets with velvet collars, drainpipe trousers (so tight they looked like drainpipes!) and brightly coloured socks. Their shoes had very thick rubber soles and their hair was swept upwards and backwards. Before the arrival of the Teddy Boys young people usually wore what their parents used to. Now they wore what they liked.
In the mid-sixties Mods (so called because of their ‘modern’ style of dressing) became the new leaders of teenage fashions. Short hair and smart suits were popular again. But perhaps the Mods’ most important possessions were their scooters, usually decorated with large number of light mirrors. They wore long green anoraks, so called parkas, to protect their clothes.
The Mods’ greatest enemies were Rockerswho despised the Mods’ scooters and smart clothes. Like the Teds, Rockers listened mainly to rock-and-roll and had no time for Mod bands such as ‘The Who or the Small Faces’. They rode powerful motorbikes, had long untidy hair, and wore thick leather jackets. Whereas the Mods used purple hearts (a stimulant or amphetamine, so called because of its colour and shape), to get their kicks, the rockers mainly drank alcohol. Through the 60s, on public holidays during the summer, groups of Mods and Rockers used to travel to the sea resorts of south-eastern England, such as Brighton and Margate, and get involved in battles with the police and with each other. Nevertheless at that time ‘swinging London’ was everybody’s idea of heaven! Young people were very clothes-conscious and London’s Carnaby Street became the fashion centre of Europe and the world. It attracted thousands of tourists every year.
Towards the end of 60s a new group appeared, whose ideas started in California, in the USA. The hippies preached a philosophy of peace and love, wore necklaces of coloured beads, and gave flowers to surprised strangers in the street. The name comes from the fact that drug-takers in Asia and the Far East used to lie on one hip while smoking opium. Hippies didn’t use opium but they smoked marijuana, and took powerful drugs such as LSD. Music, especially under the influence of the Beatles, began to include strange sounds and images in an attempt to recreate the ‘psychedelic’ or dream-like experience of drugs. Hippies wore simple clothes, blue jeans and open sandals, and grew their hair very long. They often lived together in large communities, sharing their possessions. This was their protest against the materialism of the 60s and also against the increasing military involvement of the United States in Vietnam. However, the dreams of peace and love disappeared in the early 70s as the mood of the society changed. People’s attention turned to life’s more basic problems as the world price of oil increased, causing a fall in living standards and rising inflation.
Skinheads were racist, violent and proud of the fact. The ‘uniform’ worn by most of them consisted of trousers that were too short, enormous boots and braces. As their name suggests, they wore their hair extremely short or even shaved it all off. As unemployment grew throughout the 70s groups of skinheads began to take their revenge on immigrants, who were attacted on the streets and in their homes. Unfortunately the mass unemployment of the 80s caused an increase in the number of skinheads. Many were members of the National Front, a political party that wants Britain to be for white people only.
Towards the end of the 80s another type of music and dress appeared and is still popular. The word Punkderives from American English and is often used to describe someone who is immoral of worthless. The best-known punk band of the 70s and early 80s were ‘The Sex Pistols’ who are still famous for their strange names, including Johnny Rotten and Sid Vicious. They sang songs about anarchy and destruction and upset many people using bad language on television and by insulting the Queen. Their music is loud, fast and tuneless. They felt that the music of the 70s had become too complicated. It had lost touch with the feelings of ‘ordinary kids’.
In the 1980s many new bands emerged and also the old ones reappeared. Out of Punk came New Wave music which totally rejected the ideas of the skinheads. Many of the bands contain both black and white musicians, and anti-racism concerts were organized. West Indian music also played a big role in forming people’s tastes. Many new British bands combine traditional rock music with an infectious reggae beat.
Like the Rockers Bikers still enjoy ‘heavy metal music’ which is easily recognized by its high volume and use of electric guitars. ‘Dancing’ is simply shaking your head violently to the rhythm of the music and so has become known as ‘head banging’.
Many of the new bands of the 1980s were able to use the changes in technology to develop their music. Computerized drum machines, synthesizers and other electronic instruments are now just as popular as the electric guitar. Black music has become increasingly important with international stars like Michael Jackson, Freddy Mercury, Tina Turner, Sher and others.
Hip Hopmusic combines speaking in rhyme (called ‘rapping’) with the excitement of the rock beat. Finally, Live Aid and charity records have shown that many modern pop stars are interested in using their talents to help raise money for the poor.