The great fashion designers. Rose bertie.
ART IN DRESS
Dress is an important art - and always has been. Every article of clothing is a personal art expression of people who created it. In addition to satisfying a specific need for body protection or decoration, each article reflects their feeling for suitability of design and their skill as crafts-man.
There are the basic standards by which we judge the art quality of clothing, whether it was created two thousand years ago, two hundred years ago, or today. Although these basic art standards have not changed with the centuries, we know that fashions have changed. Year by year, even season by season, some "new look" makes its appearance. Yet, is it so new? The well-known phrase "There is nothing new under the sun" certainly applies to fashions. If you compare the style of dresses that you see in historic costume books, movies, you will often find that contemporary styles repeat certain features of some past mode of a dress.
Fashions do have a way of repeating themselves because designers often refer to the past when searching for new ideas. They may use only one detail, such as the cut of a sleeve or the treatment of a neckline, or they may borrow the entire silhouette.
Throughout the years fashions have revolved around three basic silhouettes: (1) tubular, (2) bell, and (3) back fullness. Long ago when fashions changed slowly, a certain silhouette remained in vogue for many years. Now, with mass production and increased buying power, fashions change rapidly and each season may include several silhouettes. The fashions of the twentieth century have been basically tubular, but designers have introduced variations of other silhouettes from time to time.
1. Запомните следующие слова:
dress, article, body protection, decoration, design, designer, craftsman, fashion, costume, contemporary, style, the cut of a sleeve, neckline, silhouette, in vogue, trousers, jacket.
2. Переведите на русский язык:
article of clothing; personal art expression; the art quality of clothing; basic art standards; the well-known phrase; the style of dresses; historic costume books; certain features; the treatment of a necklines, increased buying power.
3. Словообразование
| decorate v | - | украшать |
| decoration n | - | украшение |
| decorative a | - | декоративный |
| decorator n | - | декоратор |
| cut V | - | кроить |
| n | - | покрой |
| cutter n | - | закройщик |
| cutting a | - | скроенный, режущий |
| n | - | разрезание, вырезание |
| cutwork n | - | ришелье |
4. Повторите образование сложных прилагательных с первым компонентом "well", "ill".
Основные значения "well": Основные значения “will”:
а/ хорошо; а/ плохо, неправильно;
б/ благородно; б/ дурно;
в/ сильно, значительно. в/ неудачно.
Переведите на русский язык:
well-worn clothes, a well-read man, an ill-written article, well-fed children, ill-informed students, a well-built house, ill-spent money, an ill-fitting dress.
5. Переведите предложения на русский язык:
1. Rosy was wearing a well-tailored black jacket and white cotton trousers. 2. My father was a gentle, well-informed, ill-advised man. 3. He wore a suit of excellent grey cloth but of a foreign cut and none too well-fitting. 4. His house was large, well-furnished, well-heated in winter, well-shaded in summer and well kept. 5. She was a well-preserved woman of forty-five. 6. He always wore well-cut clothes.
6. Найдите в тексте предложения с оборотом “There is,There are” Переведите также следующие предложения на русский язык:
1. There are many man-made fibers now. 2. There were special machines to sew buttons. 3. There were two reasons for the popularity of cotton - its low price and its versatility. 4. There are clothes that look wonderful on fashion figures in photographs and they also look right on you.
7. Ответьте на вопросы:
1. What does each article reflect?
2. Have basic art standards changed with centuries?
3. What phrase can certainly be applied to fashion?
4. Do contemporary styles repeat certain features of some past mode of a dress?
5. Why do designers often refer to the past?
6. What may designers use when searching for new ideas?
7. How many basic silhouettes do you know?
8. Why do fashions change rapidly nowadays?
8. Переведите на английский язык:
I. Существуют основные стандарты, при помощи которых определяют, в какое время было создано платье, 2. Иногда детали современного платья бывают заимствованы из моды прошлого. 3. Модельеры обращаются к модам прошлого, создавая новые, современные модели, 4. Сейчас мода меняется очень быстро, а раньше определенный силуэт мог быть модным в течение нескольких лет.
PRACTICAL FASHION
In search of new ideas designers are often inspired by national costumes of people living in distant lands. It may be "an idea for the cut of a coat or a dress, it may be an inspiration for belts, or other accessories, or itmay be some decorative detail or fabric design.
It is obvious that our contemporary designscannot be exact duplicates of any period of national costumes. Designers borrow ideas insofar as they are practical for our modern needs. The girls and women of today are active. They are not the sit-at-home type of yesteryear. As а result of it, they want clothes in which they can comfortably work and play, they want clothes that is designed to suit the functions and natural structure ofthe body.
People wear different clothes for work and for leisure all over the world: simple, practical garments to keep them warm and dry in cold weather and cool in sunny, hot climates. During the last few decades some of these clothes have become popular as fashion wear. For instance, “ethnic” clothes (like the poncho described below) were fashionable at certain periods during the 60s and. 70s. The poncho, from Central and South America, is basically very simple and practical. Although you can buy ponchos in bright colours with complicated designs and embroidery on them, they weren't designed for decoration. The poncho protects the wearer from сold weather and it allows plenty of movement, leaving the arms free.
Blue jeans were originally hard-wearing trousers for American cowboys. Jeans are now worn everywhere. They go through many changes as fashions change: flared, straight, baggy, etc.
Travel to Scotland and you'll see the famous Scottish kilt, a sort of pleated skirt made of tartan. Tartan is a woven material made from fibers of different colours, running at right angles to each other. The kilt is worn by women all over the world as a warm winter skirt. Men still wear it in Scotland.
Today, fashion conscious people often wear work clothes; jeans, dungarees painter’s, overalls and army clothes. These clothes were all made for manual or outdoor work, but nowadays lots of town dwellers who never do manual work wear them because they are practical. In other words, people of today want clothing that is truly functional in design - clothing that can be used for work or play.
1. Запомните следующие слова:
national costume, coat, belt, accessoriesэ jeans, complicated design, embroidery, practical, fashionable, pleated skirt, overall, army clothes, fabric, quality.
2. Обратите внимание на слова:
Синонимы Антонимы
garments - clothing warm - cold
fashionable - modern distant - near
various - different contemporary - old fashioned
plenty of - lots of - many active - passive
3. Найдите в тексте предложение, в котором употребляется сложное слово-фраза. Переведите следующие предложения:
1. Inside the dining-room there were tables and the custom was always first-come-first-served. 2. He met all girls, even I-don't-know-your-name girls. 3.She said how-do-you-do to me briefly.
4. Изучите значения выделенных слов. Заполните пропуски словами to dress, to put on, to wear в требуемой форме:
to dress means to put on clothes
to put on means to place clothes on any part of our body, oppose to take off
to wear means to have on the body or about the person
1. The man we met was ... a cotton shirt and black trousers. 2. It was pleasant to see her ... in a national costume. 3. When spring comes she always ... a flower in a button-hole of her costume. 4. They asked me how he was ... but I couldn't recollect what he was ... that day. 5. Please, help me to ... the children. 6. She is so beautiful and she ... well. 7. Don't ... your overcoat, it's very warm outside. 8. The mother ... the child and told him to wait for her in the yard. 9. She doesn’t't ... glasses on the stage.
5. Найдите в тексте предложения с модальными глаголами. Переведите следующие предложения, обращая внимание на модальные глаголы и их эквиваленты:
1. Synthetic fabrics can be used alone or with natural materials. 2. Various cottons may require no ironing. 3. You should know that the term "wool" refers only to the fibre obtained from sheep. 4. One must not forget that wool is used everywhere. 5. Fabrics made of nylon do not need to be pressed so often. 6. Wash-and-wear fabrics have to be used widely. 7. One must remember that each garment should have fine design qualities. 8. This dress has to be done in time. 9. A dress should be nicely related to the figure.
6. Ответьте на Вопросы:
1. What are designers often inspired by?
2. What can designers use when studying national costumes?
3.What clothes do active women want?
4. Can contemporary designs be exact duplicates of any period of national costumes?
5. What clothes do people wear for work and for leisure?
6. When were "ethnic" clothes popular? Were they practical?
7. What skirt is worn by women all over the world now?
8. Why do many people wear such work clothes as jeans now?
THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION
Fashion evolves, either speedily or slowly, but it never occurs with an explosion. There is development in stages, even in times of rapid communication, and the sole concession to make on this matter is that most aware designers will project a radical change simultaneously, although in different hemispheres and countries.
For instance, the New Look had it beginnings just before the 1939. In that year it was possible to see indicative points to what became the New Look. The Second World War stopped the progression of this look, and it appeared only in 1947 in Dior’s collection when there were conditions in terms of both cloth production and manufacture.
The very short skirt or dress called the mini happened in a parallel manner. An introduction by, incidentally, the same fashion house in 1960 was a failure. No-one would take to the shorter hemline. But some time later this fashion, together with corresponding changes in shape and detail, became popular allover the world. Over the period of approximately five years until 1970 the skirt levelbecame shorter and shorter and then stayed. Midi-length clothes were first seen in 1967, but certainly did not catch on until St Laurent and Valentino displayed them in 1970.
Change occurs when banality or boredom sets in. It happens throughout the creative world that at one time one particular product of the innovators will be very much sought after. Methods and ideas are emulated, decadence and meaningless approach follow and the original idea becomes commonplace. When this happens the time is ripe for change. Intuition allows the creator to anticipate this and start the change to prevent total boredom.
Changes in clothes fashions during the 60's were faster than even before because for the first time fashionable changes emanate from youth groups and since the young are on the whole volatile and easily bored with one excitement, the need is for the next, and quickly.
I.Запомните следующие слова:
collection, cloth production, fashion house, failure, shape, level, length, change, measure, dart, shoulder, gorge dart, rayon, silk, leather, to crease.
2. Подберите русским словам и словосочетаниям английские эквиваленты из правой колонки:
длина юбки approximately
стать модным original idea
приблизительно to be much sought after
иметь успех to catch on
подол, низ skirt level
оригинальная идея hemline
3. Словообразование
wear n 1) ношение, носка
2) платье, одежда
in wear 1) надеваемый
2) модный
wear v (wore, worn) 1) быть одетым, носить
2) носиться, выдерживать носку
to wear out - изнашивать
wearable а - пригодный для носки
wearer n - владелец / шляпы, пальто и т.д./
wearing n - носка, ношение
wear-proof a - износоустойчивый
4.Повторите значения следующих союзов:
both ... and как .... так и
both оба
either ... or или ... или
either любой
Переведите предложения на русский язык:
1. In determining the length of your dress, you need to be guided both by the fashion and by peculiarities of your figure. 2. People like to wear cotton garments both in summer and in winter. 3. Both girls examined shoes carefully before buying. 4. Either of these two measures is but an approximation of the correct measure. 5. A dart in this position is useful if the design does not permit for either a shoulder dart or a gorge dart.
5. Повторите образование сложных прилагательных типа "Основа наречия + основа прилагательного". Переведите:
example: dark-blue - темно-голубой
deep-yellow - густо-желтый
dull-brown - тускло-коричневый
light-grey, light-yellow, dark-brown, dark-green, dark-red, dull-red, pale-blue, pale-grey, pale-green, blue-yellow, brown-purple, white-brown, black-red, blue-white, rosy-red.
6. Переведите на английский язык:
Зеленовато-желтый, золотисто-красный, пурпурно-коричневый, коричневато-зеленый, пурпурно-желтый, коричневато-красный, зеленовато-серый, серо-белый, темно-синий, беловато-серый.
7. Ответьте на вопросы:
1. Does fashion develop in stages or with an explosion?
2. When did the features of the New Look appear for the first time?
3. Who introduced the New Look in fashion?
4. Was the introduction of the mini in 1960 successful?
5. When did midi-length clothes appear?
6. When does change occur?
7. When is the time ripe for change?
8. Why were changes in clothes fashions during the 60’s faster?
8. Переведите на английский язык:
1. Развитие моды происходит постепенно. 2. Одежда «мини» была впервые показана в коллекции Диора в 1960 году. 3. В течение пяти лет, приблизительно, длина юбки становилась все короче и короче. 4. Одежда «миди» стала популярной в 1970 году.
9. Составьте аннотацию текста на английском языке.
Style and styles
Broadly there are two main styles, classic and romantic. Classic is what is perfectionist, balanced, reasoned and cool, working to set of rules, lacking in obvious emotion. Romantic is expressionist, exotic, emotional in technique, stating individuality, eccentric, even absurd.
These are extreme examples and an imaginary line connecting the two would measure all the grades in between – mainly classic with overtones of romanticism, or romantic detail within a classic framework. Romanticism adds emotional overtones as opposed to making a factual statement. A classically dressed woman will give nothing away about her character, whereas if she were romantically dressed, many facets about her could be discovered from all the very personal items she was wearing. One point about this is that it is possible that the face and attitudes of the classically dressed woman will take on more importance as the eye of the beholder will solely aware of harmonious and perfectly proportioned areas and look to the living woman for the alleviation of this cold perfection. Alternatively romantically designed outfits may take all interest away from the person herself. Narrow the whole argument further and one could say that classic is formal and severe, while the romantic offers involvement, allusion.
Classic clothing has come to be understood as very simple, unextreme. By romantic one usually means pretty and feminine. The classic tailor-made, classic twin-set, classic shirt, these are garments which can go on for decades with only the slightest deviation to fashionable trends.
It is sometimes difficult to see how modern design can be classified as romantic or classic. If, however, the intentions are analyzed, the distinction will become quite clear.
I. Запомните слова:
shrink, moderate, wool, dry, to dry, linen, synthetic, to sew, shuttle.
2. Закончите предложения, вставив подходящие по смыслу слова:
1. There are two main … classic and romantic. 2. Romanticism adds ... as opposed to making a factual statement. 3. A ... dress will give nothing away about the character of a woman. 4. Many ... garments can go on for decades with only the slightest deviation to ... 5. Most clothes considered specifically modern have in fact ... in style.
3. Словообразование
fashion n - фасон, покрой, стиль, мода
to be the fashion - быть в моде
to be in fashion - быть в моде
to be in the fashion - следовать моде
dressed to the height of fashion - одетый по последней моде
fashion v - моделировать
fashionable a - модный
fashioner n - портной, костюмер
fashion-paper - журнал мод
4. Найдите в тексте и переведите предложения, в которых употребляется слово "one и. Слово "one”может быть:
а/ числительным;
б/ неопределенным местоимением;
в/ словом-заместителем;
Переведите следующие предложения, определите функцию “one":
1. One of the main parts of the sewing machine is shuttle. 2. First one must consider the actual shape of the figure. 3. One or two darts should be taken in front. 4. This design requires less material than that one. 5. These are new modern dresses and those are old ones. 6. One should remember that wool clothes don't shrink in moderate temperatures. 7. One must not forget that wool is useful in warm and tropical countries as well as in cold ones. 8. Because of quick drying linen is one of the most comfortable fabrics.
5. Найдите в тексте и переведите предложения, в которых употребляется слово “that”. Слово "that" может быть:
а/ указательным местоимением;
б/ словом-заместителем;
в/ относительным местоимением;
г/ союзом;
д/ составной частью эмфатической конструкции "it is ... that".
Переведите предложения, определите функцию “that”:
1. It is clear that the history of clothing is of great interest to any person dealing with the sewing industry. 2. That clothing is directly connected with climate is known to everybody. 3. It is wool that is used for practically all kinds of clothes. 4. That pleated skirt called kilt is all the fashion now. 5. That young designer works hard every day and gets good results. 6. These molecules differ from those of another nature.
6. Ответьте на вопросы:
1. What main styles do you know?
2. What are the main features of the classic style?
3. What is characteristic for the romantic style?
4. What can you say about a classically dressed woman?
5. Can romantically designed outfits take any interest from the person herself?
6. Are classic garments always in fashion?
7. Составьте аннотацию текста на английском языке.
THE GREAT FASHION DESIGNERS. ROSE BERTIE.
The great and original designers have followed many different lines. There is much to be learned just how they came to the trade and developed their own particular flairs.
The origin of the term fashion design started with a highly influential milliner called Rose Bertin round about 1770. Although for many years previously women had prepared clothing and trimmings for various customers, this was against the laws in France until the late 17th century. Only men were legally permitted to purvey clothing to ladies of society. In 1675 a petition was presented to the King of France stating that it would accord with modesty that ladies should be dressed by members of their own sex. This petition was successful and women dressmakers were allowed to make skirts and petticoats.
The earliest known dressmaker of influence is Rose Bertin, who was born in the middle of the 18th century in France.
Designing of that merely consisted of placing the right kind of flowers and ribbons on a more or less basic silk garment. But Bertin had a high critical sense and an eye for proportion and she was heard by members of the aristocracy to comment strongly on these points.
Rose was fortunate enough to open her own house in Paris and was even known as the first Minister of Fashion. Having reached and kept to the top of her profession for some years when the Revolution came she was obliged to flee from Paris to Germany. She traveled with work-girls in search of good business and opened a shop in London. But funds were low and even at the height of her influence and fame Bertin was often not paid for her work.
Finally, when returned back to Paris in 1800, she found herself far from smart scene: other fashionable designers had taken her place and she herself died in 1812, in poverty.
1. Запомните следующие слова:
trimming, to purvey clothing, petticoat, flower, ribbon, silk garment, proportion, selvage, quality, elastic fibres, shrink.
2. Вставьте подходящие по смыслу слова:
1. The origin of the term … started with milliner called Rose Bertin. 2. Only men were legally permitted … to ladies of society. 3. In 1675 women were allowed to make … . 4. Designing of the 18th century merely consisted of placing … on a more or less basic … .5. Rose Bertin was known as the first … .6. When Rose Bertin returned back to Paris, other … had taken her place.
3. Изучите значения следующих слов. Запомните пропуски словами “cloth”, “clothes”:
Cloth 1) material made by weaving (wool, silk, cotton, etc.) (pl) cloths in the sense “kinds of cloth”;
2) a piece of this material for special purposes, (pl) cloth in sense “pieces of cloth”.
Clothes 1) wearing apparel, dress, garment; articles of cloth, designed to cover or protect the body.
2) bedclothes.
1. She wears old … . 2. He wore an old yachting cap of blue … . 3. She went to her room to change her … . 4. He was as careless of his … as a child. 5. A wedding dress of sheerest white linen was embroidered with white flowers – they seemed to grow out of the … .
4. Ответьте на вопросы:
1.Why do you like to buy ready-made clothes? 2. How long does it take you to put on your clothes in the morning? 3. Do you like black clothes? 4. What kind of clothes do young girls wear? 5. How many table-cloths have you got? 6. What do we use to dry the dishes?
5. Переведите на английский язык:
1. В магазине продавалось сукно различных сортов. 2. Я обычно покупаю готовую одежду. 3. Дайте, пожалуйста, тряпку. 4. Где твоя новая одежда? 5. Где наша новая белая скатерть? 6.На ней всегда красивая одежда.
6. Повторите функции причастия II. Переведите следующие предложения, определите функции причастия II:
1. If pulled both lengthwise and crosswise the fabric stretches more easily from selvage to selvage than in the direction of the selvages.2. The machine used was constructed by the engineer of the sewing factory. 3. Our clothing industry has advanced during recent years and gained a strong position through style and quality. 4. Fabrics made of nylon don’t need to be pressed very often. 5. Cotton fabrics were used thousands of years ago. 6. As seen from the article synthetics are widely used in the industry. 7. Materials made from elastic fibres do not shrink easily.
7. Ответьте на вопросы:
1. Who invented the term “fashion design”?
2. Who was legally permitted to make clothes up to the late 17th century?
3. What petition was presented to the King of France?
4. When were women dressmakers legally allowed to make clothes?
5. Who is the first famous dressmaker in the history of fashion?
6. Had Rose Bertin a high critical sense?
7. Was she known as the Minister of Fashion?
8. Was Bertin always paid for her excellent work?
8. Переведите на английский язык:
1. Только мужчина-портной мог шить одежду в 17 веке во Франции. 2. В 1675 году король официально разрешил женщинам-портнихам шить юбки для женщин. 3. Моделирование в 18 веке было довольно простым: нужно было лишь правильно и красиво разместить цветы и ленты на шелковом платье. 4. Роуз Бертин стала первым министром моды, её мнение высоко ценили члены аристократического общества.
9. Составьте аннотацию на английском языке.
Louis Leroy. Worth
The next designer one might consider important is Louis Leroy. Born in 1763 and brought up in the atmosphere of the Paris Opéra, where his father worked, he soon began to show a specific interest in ladies clothing. He of course was affected by the Revolution, as he had been working for the aristocracy, but luckily he was asked by the Convention to design suitable dresses and clothing for the New Régime, and found favor with his highly patriotic work. He was, in fact, an established designer when Rose Bertin returned to Paris. His forte was Grecian-style robes, but which were decorated with a deal of ribbons and embroideries. Some of his designs and clothes can be seen in the museums in France and nowadays.
Charles Worth was an English designer who influenced the entire fashion world of Paris and even of Europe. He was born in 1825 in a poor family and at eleven years old had to begin work supporting his family. After some time he went to London, still at a very tender age, to work in a draper’s firm as a fabric salesman. Some years later he decided to go to France. He worked in a draper’s shop in Paris for a year, at the same time learning to speak French. It took some years of slow progress for Worth finally to be allowed to open within the firm a dressmaking establishment.
The House of Worth was the first 19th century fashion house to use models or mannequins to show the clothes. Worth became the first designer to hold the monopoly of dressing the European aristocrats for a long period. He introduced to the French the English “tailor-made” for women. He is said to have invented the crinoline and after that the bustle. He was an innovator of fashion on many levels.
1. Запомните следующие слова:
suitable, robe, embroidery, drape, fabric, a dressmaking establishment, model, mannequin, a cutting shop, neckline, light-weight, emphasize, affinity.
2. Подберите русскими словами английские эквиваленты из правой колонки:
конструировать одежду to influence the fashion world
платье в греческом стиле mannequins or models
украшать лентами to design clothes
влиять на мир моды to show the clothes
демонстрировать одежду a Grecian-style robe
манекенщицы to decorate with ribbons
3. Заполните пропуски подходящими по смыслу словами:
1. Leroy was asked by the Convention … for the New Régime. 2. Leroy was … when Rose Bertin returned back to Paris. 3. Worth was an English … who influenced the entire … of Paris and even of Europe. 4. The House of Worth was the first 19th century ... to use ... . 5.Worth was an innovator of ... on many levels.
3. Словообразование
design v - конструировать, моделировать
n - фасон, чертёж, рисунок, творческий замысел
to design a dress - придумать фасон платья
designed a - сконструированный
designer n - модельер, конструктор
designing n - моделирование, конструирование
a - конструирующий
4. Повторите функции причастия I. Определите функцию причастия I в следующих предложениях.
1. When dealing with fashions a strong sense of style is quite necessary. 2. He is working at the experimental cutting shop now. 3. The clothing of Northern people protecting the man from cold and rain was of great importance being one of the fundamental conditions of man's existence. 4. In the tropics clothing was first rather like a decoration ornamenting the body and covering only some parts of it. 5. Studying the history of the costume through the ages we see new styles being introduced into clothing. 6. When designing one must consider the actual shape of the figure. 7. The neckline is one of the dominant lines giving the dress character. 8. Being very strong and fine silk makes a light-weight fabric. 9. She was sewing a brown velvet skirt when we came to her.
5. Ответьте на вопросы:
1. When was Louis Leroy born?
2. What did he do in France after the Revolution?
3. What was Leroy's forte?
4. Was Worth a French or an English designer?
5. Did Worth influence only the French fashion world?
6. When did Worth born? When did he begin to work?
6. Составьте аннотацию текста на английском языке.
Paul Poiret
Although other fashion houses were flourishing, it was Paul Poiret who was the next great influence in the world of fashion. His conceptions were at that time utterly revolutionary and shattered the complacency of the period.
Born in a rather poor family, at an early age he began to show interest in women's apparel. Having spent two years training at the famous fashion house of Worth he proved that he had talent.
When he finally opened his own establishment, the impact was tremendous. Poiret was responsible for freeing the higher to restricted bosom, but he proceeded to hobble the legs. He widely used fabulous hats, often smallish in size, but with plumes like great brushes, in contrast to the lean body shape.
After the 1920s, Poiret ceased to be an influence on the contemporary smart scene. Although there was an underlying simplicity either in decoration or shape, his clothes showed a strong feeling for the exotic, in their tendency towards oriental influences. This influence simultaneously hit the arts, the theatre and the interior decoration of houses.
Paul Poiret cultivated and made use of the talents of various artists. His association with George Lepape, whose drawings have crystallized this epoch, has left a marvelous documentation of his fashion work in some fashion papers. Mattisse also worked on the ideas for textile prints for Poiret. Poiret belonged to the world of Diaghilev and Benois.
The genteel world of Worth was a far cry from that of Poiret, whose clothes were in total contradiction, being quite unladylike sometimes in colour, form and decoration.
1. Запомните следующие слова:
the world of fashion, women's apparel, shape, exotic, select, oriental influences, interior decoration, textile prints.
2. Заполните пропуски подходящими по смыслу словами:
1. It was Paul Poiret who was the next great... in the world of ... 2. Being very young Poiret began to show an interest in ... 3. Having spent two years training at the ... of Worth, Poiret opened his own ... 4. His clothes showed a strong feeling for ... , in their tendency towards ... 6. Only after the 1920s Poiret ceased to be … .
3. Составьте предложения из следующих слов и словосочетаний:
1. Revolutionary, were, at that time, of Poiret, utterly, the conception. 2. Had talents, having spent, training, Poiret, at the fashion house, proved, that, he, of Worth, two years. 3. Of various artists, Poiret, of the talents, use, made.
4. Повторите образование и употребление зависимого и независимого причастных оборотов. Найдите в тексте 2 предложения с зависимым причастным оборотом. Переведите предложения:
1. The material having been chosen, basic lines of the construction are selected and variety of the lines is planned. 2. When making the experiments, the students found that wool fibres absorbed moisture quickly. 3. In school clothes the silhouette is not a dominant feature, the chief factor being colour and material. 4. The fabric being not true before cutting, the finished garment will tend to twist. 5. When speaking at the conference, the chief engineer gave an analysis of using woolens in the sewing industry. 6. A cutting department should be divided into sections, each section being under the supervision of a trained master-cutter.
5. Ответьте на вопросы:
1. When did Poiret begin to show interest in clothing?
2. Where did he spend two years training?
3. What was characteristic of Poiret clothes?
4. Did Poiret's clothes influence the arts and the theatre?
5. What was Poiret responsible for?
6. Did Poiret cooperate with various artists?
Coco Chanel
The most remarkable thing about Chanel is that she made a comeback and became successful once again after fifteen years absence from fashion scene. She was very well-known during the thirties and gave up the fashion business in 1939. She proceeded to make an increased reputation in the fifties and sixties after two coolly received collections in 1954.
Chanel has been a great innovator, changing during the twenties and thirties the entire concept of fashion, using cheap ''worker's'' cloth instead of expensive materials. Through her clothes she changed the image of the smartly dressed woman, turning her into a little gamine who wore easy clothes and was the very antithesis of the grande dame.
Gabrielle Chanel started her career with a hat shop in 1914. Everything she did carried her felling for understatement and it was evident in the colors she used - black, beige, gray and white with navy.
Chanel's clothes were a complete antithesis of Poiret's ideas: his clothes showed a flamboyant arrogance, hers showed an understated and simple arrogance, usually in “nothing” colors - but always free and supple. The clothes Chanel designed were based on a principle of suppleness and easy wear and opened an entirely new epoch.
Chanel's suits and coats seemed light as feather, since no hard canvases or stiffening were used. Soft English tweeds, but trimmed with gold fancy buttons, silk facings and cuffs, perhaps fabric and lining stitched through together as in quilting. No one has ever used such a mass of detail of with such taste and success. Having twice powerfully influenced the world of fashion, Chanel is great. Her consistency was part of her strength: she adhered to the same simple concept and the same basic philosophy.
1. Запомните следующие слова:
cheap, expensive, to wear, beige, navy, color, suit, cuff, feather, canvas, soft, tweed, to trim, button, gold.
2. Переведите на русский язык:
fashion scene, fashion business, the entire concept of fashion, smartly dressed, easy wear, trimmed with buttons, stitched through together, complete antithesis, an increased reputation, to make a comeback.
3. Словообразование
color n - цвет, тон, оттенок
primary colors - основные цвета
secondary colors - составные цвета
all colors of the rainbow - все цвета радуги
out of color - выцветший, выгоревший
without color - бесцветный
to dress in colors -одеваться ярко
to match colors - подбирать цвета;
v - красить, раскрашивать
colored a - цветной
color-fast a - невыцветающий, прочный
colorful a - красочный, яркий
colorless a - бесцветный, бледный
4. Повторите функции инфинитива. Переведите предложения на русский язык, укажите функцию инфинитива:
1. There must be selected accessories to worn with the costume.
2. In order to make a closely-fitting top a skirt yoke should be provided.
3. To increase synthetic production is quite necessary for our country.
4. The North people wear furs to keep them warm.
5. Clothing has its ability to keep one warm or cool.
6. To develop our sewing industry it is necessary to have a great supply of different fabrics.
7. I want to buy this black close-fitting jacket.
8. It would be of great help to us to watch the work of the electronic cutter.
9. The article to be translated is in this fashion paper.
10. We don't know exactly when man first began to wear shoes.
5. Ответьте на вопросы:
1. What is the most remarkable thing about Chanel?
2. When did Chanel become famous?
3. Why is Chanel called «a great innovator»?
4. Where did Chanel begin her career?
5. What is the difference between Poiret's and Chanel's clothes?
6. What were Chanel's clothes based on?
7. Why did Chanel's suits seem light as feathers?
8. Did Chanel use a mass of details in her designs?
6. Переведите на английский язык.
1. Шанель вновь смогла добиться огромного успеха в области моды после пятнадцатилетнего перерыва. 2. Две коллекции, подготовленные Шанель в 1954 году, были встречены публикой без восторга. 3. Шанель была большим новатором в области моды, она первой стала использовать дешевые материалы для пошива модной одежды. 4. Шанель полностью изменила образ модно одетой женщины.
7. Составьте аннотацию текста на английском языке.
MADAM VIONNET
Madam Vionnet is said to be one of the fashion leaders of the twenties and thirties because of her perfect knowledge of cut and construction which brought fourth the using and designing of the bias and cross cut. This has had a most remarkable influence ever since and is one of the main principles whether in fashion or not of dressmaking. Mme Vionnet was not renowned for being a colourist as did Chanel at that time, advocated nondescript tones.
Vionnet was born in France at the end of the 19th century. When twelve years old she began to work in dressmaking and at twenty went to London. On returning to France she began to cut toils in a very well known house in France. Later she opened her own house, in her own name, having learned her trade and having given much in return. Up till the early thirties hers had been a modest success and Vionnet had established a clientele, who adored the severity and classicism of her clothes.
Her philosophy was that clothes should be made in a suitable fabric and not stiffened into shapes which were not inherent to its nature; and that female anatomy was all important and was to be followed and utilized. She would never allow padding and rarely resorted trimmings. In one sense she was a sculptor.
1.Переведите на английский язык:
Отличное знание кроя и конструирования, использование кроя по косой, один из главных принципов шитья, очень широко известный дом мод, классицизм одежды, быть художником-колористом, использовать нейтральные тона.
2.Словообразование
dress n -платье, одежда
dress cutter n - закройщик
dress model -фасон платья
morning dress -домашнее платье, халат
dress clothes - парадная одежда
V - одевать, одеваться
to dress well (badly) - одеваться хорошо/плохо
dressed a -одетый
dresser n - костюмер, декоратор
dressiness n - элегантность, изящество
dressing n - одевание, украшение
dressing-room n - комната для переодевания
dress-maker n - портниха
dressmaking n - шитьё, пошив одежды
dressy a - модный, изящный
3. Обратите внимание на слова:
Синонимы Антонимы
banal-commonplace failure- success
accidentally- by chance speedily- slowly
rapid- quick- fast first- last
Подберите антонимы к следующим словам:
Suitable, important, to close, forth, different, complete, light, natural, to differ
To open, similar, unsuitable, unimportant, incomplete, heavy backwards, man-made, to coincide
4. Повторите образование и употребление объективного и субъективного инфинитивных оборотов. Переведите предложения:
1. The Greek and Roman costumes are known to be excellent examples of draped clothing. 2. Man’s first necessities are known to have been food, then shelter, then clothing. 3. We know clothing to be directly connected with climate. 4. The length of the dress is considered to have a definite effect on the figure. 5. Cotton fabrics are known to be used thousands of years ago. 6. A long clinging dress appears to add height. 7. The students know raglan sleeves to be pleasing on the person with erect shoulders. 8. Any line encircling the figure is likely to add width. 9. Everyone considers a dress to be an important art.
5. Замените сложноподчиненные предложения простыми предложениями с субъективным инфинитивным оборотом:
Example: This new method of sewing proved that it was extremely effective.
This new method of sewing proved to be extremely effective.
1. It happened that the man offered gloves as a gift/to/his/lady-love.2. It is supposed that Queen Elizabeth set/the/fashion for wearing gloves. 3. It/is/said/that the positions of trimmings have a definite effect on height and width of the figure.
6. Замените сложноподчиненные предложения простыми предложениями с объективным оборотом:
Example: We know that the hides of animals have been used widely for clothing.
We know the hides of animals to have been used widely for clothing.
1. Everyone known that clothing has its cultural and emotional values. 2. It was reported that the first sewing factory in the city was opened in the 19th century. 3. We know that wool is a non-conductor of heat.
7. Заполните пропуски подходящими по смыслу словами:
1. Mme Vionnet is said to be one … of the twenties and thirties because of her perfect knowledge… .2. The using and designing of … is one of the main principles of … .3. Mme Vionnet advocated … tones. 4. The clientele of Vionnet adored … of her clothes.
8. Ответьте на вопросы:
1. What is Mme Vionnet famous for?
2. What is one of the main principles of dressmaking?
3. Did the using of the bias add cut cross influence the fashion world?
4. What tones did Mme Vionnet prefer?
5. When did Vionnet begin to work in dressmaking?
6. When is characteristic for Vionnet’s designs?
7. Did Vionnet widely use trimmings in her designs?
8. Was the classicism of her works recognized everywhere?
9. Составьте аннотацию текста на английском языке.
SCHIAPARELLI.
Schiaparelli was in complete contrast to the designers of the thirties. She didn’t commence with any traditional training of cutting and sewing: knit fancy sweaters were the beginning of Schiaparelli as a designer. Schiaparelli showed her talents as a manager of surrealist ideas. Comic, aggressive and often even vulgar, many of her designs were her novelty and not at all in the grand tradition. However, they did amuse and delight many women who were ready for a change. The word “shock” is synonymous with Schiaparelli. She as well as Poiret robust vulgarity, but at the same time she was an innovator of many exciting ideas. She was the surrealist fond of using curious and possibly unsuitable motifs in her clothes (such as a shoe for a hat, for example). She even employed the painter Salvador Dali and also used Picasso to design prints and clothes ideas.
There was rarely any subtlety in anything she did, only studied effect and a willful contempt of accepted “good taste”. Strident colour was also a hallmark of this designer.
Schiaparelli’s clothes certainly did defy good taste, balance and tradition, and they were possibly a forecast of the chaos to come with the Second World War. Her philosophy for fashion might have been the more eccentric, the more chic.
1.Запомните слова:
Knit sweaters, surrealist, good taste, strident eccentric, chic, defy advantages.
2. Словообразование.
fit n -подгонка
to be a bad (good) fit - плохо/хорошо/ сидеть
to be a fight fit - плотно облегать фигуру
to be an easy fit - сидеть свободно/об одежде/
V -подходить быть в пору
to fit on - примерять, подгонять
fitting n - примерка облегание
closely fitting a -сильно прилегающий
3.Переведите на русский язык:
Complete contrast, traditional training of cutting and sewing, knit fancy sweaters, a designer of surrealist ideas, the grand tradition, to be ready for a change, exciting ideas, unsuitable motifs, good taste, strident colour.
4. Подберите русским словосочетаниям английские эквиваленты
из правой колонки:
сюрреалистические идеи to use curious things
использовать курьёзные вещи studied effect
изученный эффект accepted good taste
общепринятый хороший вкус surrealist ideas
отрицать хороший вкус to deny good taste
хаос войны the chaos of war
5. Найдите в тексте и переведите предложения с союзом “as well as”. Переведите предложения:
1. Among the decoration the shape and placing of pockets are considered to be important as well as width of belts. 2. Wool as well as cotton was known to mankind long ago. 3. Wool is used in warm countries as well as in cold ones. 4. New consideration of linen and Dacron may give some of the advantages, as well as a new and interesting texture to the fabrics made from them. 5. The wool being thermostatic, it protects against heat as well as against cold.
6. Поставьте вопросы к предложениям:
1. Schiaparelli’s clothes defied good taste.
(Did…, whose clothes …, what taste …, what …)
2.The word “shock” is synonymous with Schiaparelli.
(What …, is …, with whom…, what …)
7.Ответьте на вопросы:
1. Was Schiaparelli in complete contrast to the designers of the thirties?
2. What was the beginning of Schiaparelli as a designer?
DIOR
Being a man of great refinement of taste, Dior became more published than any designer before.
Having set up an art gallery which failed, he decided during the thirties and forties to design or sketch hats and then to design clothes. After the Second World War, Paris became the centre of artistic innovation, with ideas popping up like fireworks. And by 1947 a revolution occurred in the history of fashion: there appeared “the New Look”. This was the name born out of Dior first collection.
Gentle hints had been given to this new conception of clothing in other designers’ previous collections, but it was this unknown designer who, with a clear sight, made a total commitment to it. His designs were the exact opposite to the mass clothing at that time, utterly luxurious in fabulous fabric, complete formality and restriction. The designs became extra-modern, particularly with young people who had never known such qualities because of the war. For each collection during the fifties there would be a publicized signature- the H line, the A line, the Y line, etc.
And indeed this designer was responsible each season for inventing new shapes and new cuts. Yet very seldom were they as eccentric as the initials infer. His ideal woman was utterly feminine, in contrast to Balenciaga’s.
Always in his vast collections there would be several types of women catered for. The pretty, the refined, the understated, the girlish, the cocotte: all within the same idiom but revealing different characters.
Dior remains a legend of inventiness and taste. His influence resounded throughout the world for many reasons, not only for the New Look, but for the many subsequent collections he produced.
Dior’s philosophy appeared to be that women should ravish everyone and advertise their extreme feminity, even when dressed casually. The house of Dior continued after his death, with St Laurent as a designer.
1. Переведите на английский язык:
Рисовать шляпки, моделировать, художественное новшество, новая концепция, неизвестный модельер, коллекции модельеров, противоположность, массовая одежда, изобретать новый крой, последующие коллекции.
2. Обратите внимание на слова:
ravish - admire
vast – huge
luxurious- splendid
complete- total
previous- subsequent
new- old
mass- individual
casual- accidentally
Подберите синонимы к словам:
Genteel, lean, various, fabulous, to proceed, impact
Thin, influence, elegant, different, to continue, marvelous
3. Вставьте подходящие по смыслу слова:
1. After the Second World War, Paris became the centre of….2. By 1947 there appeared new modern clothing called … .3. Dior’s clothing was the exact opposite of … at that time. 4. Dior’s clothing became …, particularly with young people. 5. Each season this designer was responsible for … .6. Dior remains a legend of ….
4. Повторите значение “it”. Переведите предложения, определите функцию “it”:
1. It is possible now to produce fabrics with different characteristics. 2. It was the Chinese who first found how to weave silk of the silk-warms into cloth. 3. It is known that any vertical line has a tendency of adding height. 4. Flax grows under a wide variety of climatic conditions; it requires a growing season of 85 to 100 days. 5. It was Dior who introduced the type of clothes called “the New Look”. 6. As the material is flat, certain seams are necessary to make it flat. 7. It is cotton that is widely used everywhere.
5. Выделите различные члены данных предложений, используя эмфатическую конструкцию “it is (was)… that (who)”:
1. This designer was responsible each season for inventing new shapes and cuts. 2. Dior’s influence resounded throughout the world for many reasons, not only for the New Look.
6.Повторите значения “would, should”. Переведите следующие предложения на русский язык:
1. If the fabric is not straightened before cutting, the finished garment would tend to twist. 2. I said that I should be through with my experiment in a week. 3. They would introduce this method of work if it were efficient. 4. She demanded that her dress should be finished as soon as possible. 5. You should help your friend. 6. If I had leather gloves, I would use them with pleasure. 7. I should like to visit the “History of Clothing” Hall. 8. One should better keep in mind all the rules of pressing.
7. Переведите предложения, обращая внимание на слово “but”:
1. The machines of the thirties can give but one-half the efficiency of modern ones in the light industry. 2. What you see are but styled slippers. 3. You may select shoes you like but these ones. 4. We had to overcome many buts before we could introduce his new method.
8.Ответьте на вопросы:
1. What did Dior decide to do during the thirties?
2. What is called “the New Look”?
3. What were characteristic features of Dior’s first collection?
4. What was typical for the collections of the fifties?
5. Did Dior invent new shapes and new cuts each season?
6. Did Dior’s ideal woman utterly feminine?
7. What types of women were shown in Dior’s collections?
9.Составьте аннотацию текста на английском языке.
2.ТЕКСТЫ ДЛЯ ДОПОЛНИТЕЛЬНОГО ЧТЕНИЯ.
BALENCIAGA
Christobal Balenciaga, although a fashion king concurrently with Dior, had entirely different ideas of what was chic. Very hard and severe, very rigorous and starkly simple, his tailoring was utterly immaculately and completely architectural. He built a name and a style on monumental design quality, on high prices and a great reluctance for much personal publicity. Commercialization was of no interest to him.
A Basque from Spain, Balenciaga at an early age began to dressmake in his small village, but made his first essay into professional dressmaking in San Sebastian. In 1936, already about forty years old, he began to work in Paris and remained there until he gave up his business in 1969.
Balenciaga’s clothes appear never to have been influenced by any other designer. His attitudes towards the designing and making of fashionable clothes were strongly Spanish and based on classic rules. He never used seasons to change line or detail: any change would take place almost imperceptibly over the length of time. The words somber and brilliant apply both to style and colour, which latter he used with daring sureness and skill, particularly in evening wear.
The clothes of Balenciaga suited severe, plain women; women whose attraction lay in hard chic, and whose beliefs matched his, in that refinement lay in the constant principles of classicism.
Ответьте на вопросы:
1. What was characteristic for Balenciaga’s tailoring?
2. Did he build a name and a style on monumental design quality?
3. When did Balenciaga begin to work in Paris?
4. Have Balenciaga’s clothes been influenced by any other designer?
5. Is Spanish influence noticeable in his clothes?
ANDRE COURREGES
Balenciaga had a group of disciples, young men who worked for him, who were to become famous, and Courrèges was among them.
Courrèges broke away from the house and on first starting his own business showed clothes that owed much in style and conception to his previous employer. This changed completely in 1963 when he showed a collection of day clothes made in heavy double gabardines but using light sugar almond colour and white.
What he showed were trousers suits of immaculate construction, very short dresses of utterly simple shape but again beautifully constructed and using no darts. Courrèges even showed glittery silver trousers worn with a long coat for evening wear.
These clothes showed a new and refreshing concept, apparently utterly modern, and were the beginning of the space-age cult in clothing. The simple hard little dresses were worn with his famous white boots and essentially suited an Amazon type of a girl, active and striding on long straight legs.
Courrèges was the universal designer. The clothes were supposed to be functional (they were not), practical and elegant (practical - no, elegant - yes), but they were pilots, that is to say, they were the beginning of a new era in women’s clothing. That collection, and those immediately following, had an immense impact which lasted until 1968. Subsequent collections showed an obsession with novelty, but not a true innovation.
Ответьте на вопросы:
1. Whose pupil was Courrèges?
2. Did his clothes owe much in style to Balenciaga at first?
3. What can you say about his day clothes shown in 1963?
4. What clothes were popular with young women in the 60s?
5. Was Courrèges universal?
6. Were his clothes elegant or practical?
Составьте аннотацию текста на английском языке.
ST LAURENT
St Laurent studied in Paris, and it was through an International Wool Secretariat competition that Dior saw, and liked, his designs. In 1957 it was first realized that Dior had a new assistant, and ten month after the death of the master St Laurent was publicity presented to the world as the successor.
His first collection was an enormous success, well publicized and well received by fashion press. St Laurent produced collections of clothes well within the handwriting of Dior’s houses. His third collection showed signs of his own individuality breaking out. It was the beginning of the fashion resolution of the 60s, but the collection was not a commercial success. Following this flop collection St Laurent was by coincidence directed into the army, and only after two-year lapse he was back in the fashion scene.
The third collection indicated a revival of oriental influence, and this style persisted throughout fashion to the end of the decade.
While at first St Laurent designed clothes which showed admiration for sophisticated women, each collection has developed a younger quality or flavour, more reflective of his own society and age group. The trousers in jersey with their safari jackets were repeated everywhere and almost became a uniform; his pleasant clothes reflected the hippy scene before most people were aware of it. Usually this designer’s clothes minimize accepted notions of feminity- his designs are rarely pretty or delicate. For time he has shown distinctly male influences on women’s clothing; for example, the safari jackets and suits.
St Laurent reacted with great sensitivity to situation in the air and his reactions were shown in his designs. He undoubtedly reflected the general feeling of careness - almost of anti-fashion – but always managed to show perfect and well-designed versions.
1. Ответьте на вопросы:
1. Who was presented to the world as the successor of Dior?
2. Was St Laurent’s first collection successful?
3. Were his clothes the beginning of the fashion revolution in the sixties?
4. What was typical for St Laurent’s clothes in the sixties?
5. Has St Laurent shown any male influences on women’s clothing?
2. Составьте аннотацию текста на английском языке.
Mary Quant
The name Mary Quant epitomizes the fashion revolution of the sixties. She has had an enormous influence on the development of the type of design and designer prevalent at the present day. The activities of this English ready-to-wear designer have had repercussions throughout the European and American continents.
Mary Quant's great contribution was that she proved that a young amateur with interest in clothing could break the conventions and restrictions of the fashion trade. Previously it was almost unheard for everyone so young and inexperienced to succeed so well. In her wake followed many talented young designers of ready-to-wear clothes.
Quant set up her business in the form of a shop called Bazaar (in Chelsea). It was only one experiencing great difficulty in finding clothes she felt to be suitable and desirable for girls of her age that she began to suggest to a manufacturer that small changes might be made in his existing merchandise. Bazaar became the shop for fashionable clothes for the young, and from then Quant began to manufacture her own ideas. Her clot